Advertisement
PostMag
Life.Culture.Discovery.
MagazinesPostMag

Q&A with Leung Fai-hung, of the InterContinental Grand Stanford

The executive Chinese chef of the top Hong Kong hotel talks to Bernice Chan about constant creativity and work-life balance

Reading Time:2 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
Leung Fai-hung. Photo: Paul Yeung
Bernice Chanin Vancouver

"I wasn't feeling well and my doctor told me I had high blood pressure, high cholesterol and problems with my kidneys. He said I needed to exercise and rest more, but I could not do that with my job. So I thought about retiring. When the hotel threw me a farewell party, hotel owner Paddy Lui Wai-yu gave a heartfelt speech. She said my departure was like a family member leaving, and I was very moved by that. During my time off I went swimming, hiking and walking and lost four kilos. I also did a bit of travelling, to Shandong, Guangxi and my hometown, Xiqiao [in Guangdong province]. But then I felt I was too young to retire and when the hotel's owner contacted me personally, asking me to come back, I did. It's hard to find such an appreciative boss."

"Some regular customers suggested I start restaurants with them, but I thought it would be too stressful for me; best to come back to a place where I feel comfortable and know everyone. I've worked at [hotel restaurant] Hoi King Heen for 20 years. These days I try to have more time off and leave work earlier so that I can squeeze in some exercise before I go to bed. I also have alternate weekends off."

"I got into the business when I was 16 years old. I came to Hong Kong from Xiqiao and didn't have many skills, so I started doing kitchen work. Back then it was really tough. I had to do whatever the chef asked me to do, from washing his clothes to buying him a drink, in the hope that he would teach me something new. We had to sleep in the restaurant, putting chairs together as our beds. I didn't like cooking at first because it was non-stop, but then as the head chef asked me to do more things, I knew I was doing a good job and I eventually became happy with what I was doing."

Advertisement

"Even while I'm eating I'll think about dishes. Before smartphones, I used to take a notebook around with me, draw a dish the best I could and make notes. And I would think of ways to make the dish tastier or the presentation better. Now it's so convenient to just take a picture with your smartphone. I like creating vegetarian dishes because it's a challenge to make them taste delicious using less oil and more seasoning."

"I don't like to cook at home but my wife doesn't cook well so I have to help her. She likes to buy expensive ingredients like abalone, crab, king prawns, and she doesn't know how to prepare them so I help her do that."

Advertisement

"I don't have a particular favourite restaurant, but I will mostly try Chinese restaurants around town to see what others are doing. For non-Chinese restaurants, I will usually eat Western or Thai cuisines to get some creative inspiration."

Advertisement
Select Voice
Choose your listening speed
Get through articles 2x faster
1.25x
250 WPM
Slow
Average
Fast
1.25x