Reporting live from the Basel fair, I would like to start by making some observations about Switzerland. No, no, I'm not going to stay neutral on this, although the Swiss would love me to, I'm sure, but I will not be (Milka) cowed into silence. So the positives; it's clean, it works, they make great watches and it gave the world Roger Federer. The negatives; it's expensive, it is a bit dull, they like horsemeat, they like fondue and, amazingly, they love horsemeat fondue. I know this horsemeat revelation is a shocker, but judge the Swiss at your peril - they all carry pocket knives, after all. Actually, that last one probably isn't true.
Getting back to the watches, yes. So the BaselWorld fair is coming to a close and it's been its usual mixture of madness and brilliance, too much to see and too little time. We will, of course, have the rest of the year to rake over the highlight pieces from the latest fair but, this week, we'll have one more look at three watches from brands that don't get as much as attention as the big boys. First up, we have the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Manufacture, a fine example of a classically styled and complicated mechanical watch. Available in a 43mm case of red-gold (right; HK$416,500) or platinum (HK$552,500), it's the former version that works better, particularly with the brown alligator-leather strap and silver dial face. Feature-packed, this watch has a dual-time function as well as an incredibly easy to use perpetual calendar, with day, date, month and year indications. Inside is an in-house UN-32.34 calibre movement and water resistance is set at 100 metres. A handsome, classic watch with genuinely useful functions, the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Manufacture is limited to 250 pieces of each version.
Next we have one for the flyboys, the Bell & Ross Vintage BR126 Falcon (left). Ordinarily, I'm not a fan of any brand putting the word "vintage" in the title of its products as it's either a bit misleading or try-hard. In Bell & Ross' case, however, the intentions are, I guess, kind of honourable, as the watch has been created as a tribute to the Dassault Falcon jet, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary, and I'm able to "get over myself" by virtue of the fact that the watch is pretty cool. A more complicated version of the BR123 Falcon, this iteration comes with a chronograph and two sub-dials inside a 41mm steel case. Eagle-eyed readers (or should that be falcon-eyed?) will notice the round-case form factor, which is a departure from the iconic Bell & Ross square dial, and what a welcome change it is, too, as the company was in danger of becoming a one-trick pony. The styling, as the vintage sobriquet would suggest, is retro with the large 12, indices and hands in a beige colour evoking a patina of age, and who doesn't love a chocolate brown dial? Limited to 500 pieces, the Bell & Ross Vintage BR126 Falcon is priced at HK$40,500.
Finally, we have the Corum Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon. Corum is a divisive force among watch people - you're either a fan or you're not - but most will respect the Admiral's Cup line, and this new iteration, with its double tourbillon, is technically innovative and looks great. Inside there is a new CO 1008 calibre movement, which as well as powering the double tourbillon, provides for additional features such as retrograde date and a clever time-adjustment mechanism. Total power reserve is a solid 72 hours. The legendary Admiral's Cup 12-sided case, designed in the 1960s, comes in grade five titanium, in this version, and is sized at 45mm. A great technical update of a strong and distinctive watch line, the Corum Admiral's Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon is priced at HK$679,000.
