6 Historic Lan Kwai Fong Restaurants
Lan Kwai Fong may be constantly changing, but these venerable eateries have stood the boozy test of time. By Adam White
Jimmy’s Kitchen
Opened: 1928 (Current location: 1975)
Eating at Jimmy’s Kitchen isn’t so much about the food: It’s about being part of history. The venerable establishment opened in 1928 in Wan Chai, before moving the year after to Theatre Lane in Central. It was one of the first restaurants to serve western comfort food to all comers, and much of the menu hasn’t changed since those early days. Head to this warm, dark, wooden-paneled space for a taste of the true classics, such as pickled herring fillets ($122), Waldorf salad ($88) or the time-honored chicken Kiev ($188) and flambéed steak Diane ($388).
South China Building, 1 Wyndham St., Central, 2526-5293.
Post 97
Opening above Club 1997 in the earliest days of Lan Kwai Fong, Post 97 has cemented itself into the minds of all LKF partygoers thanks to its ever-reliable eggs Benedict. But after 32 years the legendary joint has proved itself willing to change with the times, reopening earlier this year with a revamped space that rocks the Victorian gin palace look, even if 97 downstairs still smells of vodka Red Bull and regret. The shiny new Post 97 serves modern comfort food: think Ibérico pork chop buns ($142), grilled bone marrow ($118) or buttered Maine lobster baguettes ($168).
Schnurrbart
Opened: 1983
Schnurrbart, which means “mustache,” was opened by a trio of German businessmen who got into an argument about which German brew—Warsteiner, Jever or König—was the best. Unable to decide and with a certain Teutonic efficiency, they promptly opened a bar serving all three. Head over to this beer hall and order roasted pork knuckle ($228) with sauerkraut and mash, with its crispy exterior and melting moistness underneath. Drain a tall glass of pilsner—be prepared to wait seven or eight minutes for the perfectly poured glass—and watch the Lan Kwai Fong crowds stumble past, just as they have for the last 30 years.
29 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2523-4700.
Al’s Diner
Opened: 1989
Al’s Diner: Home of the jello shot ($44), cheesy music videos and ceiling-mounted railings so you can dance on the tables. When it first opened Al’s was one of the best places in town to grab a burger (from $85) or a Reuben ($92). While later imports may have relegated the diner’s burgers to lesser-tier status, and Stormies’ jello syringes available opposite may have upped the gelatinous alcohol game, we can’t help but have a soft spot for Al’s. As day turns into night, Al’s comes alive and becomes the epicenter of Lan Kwai Fong: the heart of the beer, the laughter, the dancing and the fun. For that reason alone, Al’s happily gets a spot on our list.
27-39 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2521-8714.
