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HK Magazine

In the 50s, street hawkers roamed the city with noodle carts full of an unbeatable range of toppings—fresh meat and slow-cooked offal, squid balls and fish cakes, vegetables and pig’s blood. Although vendors on wheels are rarely seen today, you can still get your fill of cart noodles at these establishments.
Wheel Me Home
A few of us at HK Mag are loyal fans of Car Noodle’s Family (車仔麵之家): thanks to its low prices, great soup base and modest but well executed toppings. The restaurant is known for its signature zai, a vegetarian gluten topping that’s sweet, sour, and savory all at the same time. The curry squid—marinated in sauce for... ever, we expect—is also incredibly tender and flavorful. If you’re a fan of spice, you must request the house spicy sauce: a moderate zing with a nudge of sweetness. Match it all with bouncy, al dente Shanghainese “oil” noodles.
Must-try: Zai, squid, soy sauce chicken wings.
1A Anton St., Wan Chai, 2529-6313.
Wingin’ it
Tucked away on Sugar Street, Wing Kee Noodles (榮記粉麵) is a convenient stop before karaoke inevitably calls from the huge establishment next door. The restaurant retains a loyal following thanks to a selection of 25 ingredients, and a winning house broth made with slow-cooked beef brisket juices. By far the most popular toppings are the soy sauce wing tips—lightly sweet and umami—as well as the beef brisket, daikon radish and pig’s blood.
Must-try: Wing tips, beef brisket, daikon, pig’s blood.
Shop A, G/F, 27 Sugar St., Causeway Bay, 2808-2877.
Yung and Beautiful
You can tell Yung Kee (城榕記車仔麵) goes the extra mile. For the discerning, the pork blood cubes are the real deal, as you can tell by the crisp texture—some shops make them with much mushier chicken blood. Definitely order the pork belly cubes as well: a good balance between fat and lean meat that’s marinated with aromatic soy sauce and rice wine. For an extra $12, you can have a side of the famous omelet, which is filled with pickled vegetables and cheese, or sweetcorn and cheese. Of course, you can’t leave without trying the black pepper and pig-tripe soup: sounds a little gnarly, but the peppery broth is ideal for the cooler months.
Must-try: Pork belly cubes, fish cakes/balls.
80 Ta Ku Ling Rd., Kowloon City, 3148-1489.
Chopsticks Fix
Macanese import Chopsticks Kee (筷子記) is a no-frills spot on Wellington Street. The tiny joint is constantly packed, thanks to its cheap and cheerful noodle dishes. Grab a seat amid the hundreds of clippings all over its walls, and take your pick from all the usual suspects. On offer are the likes of offal and fish balls, combined with thick noodles or “oil” noodles. For an interesting addition to your palate, try the Sichuan-spiced pork neck slices—which will numb the taste buds before the fiery broth hits. If you can’t handle spice, go for the milder soup base—even that has a pretty strong kick.
Must-try: Sichuan-spiced pork neck, pork rind, fish cakes.
85-89 Wellington St., Central, 2854-9969.
Not so Offal
Not to be confused with the venerable Kau Kee on Central’s Gough Street, Kau Kee Offal Noodles (九記牛什粉麵) in Wan Chai is famed for its cart noodles. Diners flock here for the beef brisket and offal. All noodles come with a fried wonton and a generous dose of garlic: Top your bowl off with pork rind, mushrooms, or pig intestines. The damage? $23. With a limited English menu, you’ll need a Cantonese speaker to get your offal’s worth. Don’t like offal? Why are you reading this?
Must-Try: Beef offal, beef brisket.
Shop 8, 2/F, Bowrington Road Cooked Food Centre, 21 Bowrington Rd., Wan Chai, 2988-8960.
Man, oh Man
There’s no English sign, but you’ll recognize Fat Man Cart Noodles (肥公車仔麵) from the massive line that’s perpetually outside. This Mong Kok neighborhood joint offers meats, squid, dace cakes, and all sorts of fish balls and slices that are packed with fish flavor: no fillers here. But the most popular topping must be the juicy, slow-cooked beef brisket—so soft it melts in your mouth. Still hungry? Just add $12 for a big, heaped plate of fast wok-fried rice noodles.
Must-try: Beef brisket, fish balls, fish cakes.
Shop C, 5 Arran St., Mong Kok, 2399-0071.
 

The Perfect Order
When everything is on the menu, it can be hard to narrow it down. Here are a few tips for the perfect bowl of cart noodles.
1) Noodle wisely
	Oil noodles, aka Shanghai noodles, soak up the broth in an oh-so-good way.
2) Soak it up
	Get at least one plain-flavored, spongy ingredient: think daikon radish, dumplings, vegetables, pork rind or deep-fried fish skin (pictured).
3) Screw originality
	The usual suspects are often the best. Go for pig’s blood, fish balls and cakes, and all forms of offal.
4) Go spicy
	Satay sauce (no, not the peanut-based kind) is a great addition for an extra spicy kick. Spoon it on thick.


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Hong Kong’s iconic cart noodles have been a hunger-quelling tradition for decades. Andrea Lo and Evelyn Lok find the city’s best. Photos by South Ho.
