Abrasive Behavior

There's a certain ring to the phrase "microdermabrasion in a jar." It's the synthetic clink of money (and time) being saved as you slap on some over-the-counter cream instead of booking a session at the clinic. As with most new trends in skin care, microdermabrasion is being held up as that always-elusive path to the fountain of youth. In reality, it's just a stronger and harsher way to exfoliate and it shouldn't be taken lightly. While there is a lot to love about the latest army of exfoliants marching into beauty counters in the wake of this craze, how much do we actually know about microdermabrasion beyond its sonorous and authoritative name?

Bring It On

First things first, exfoliating your skin is not an option; it's a necessity. It's vital to any noughties' skincare regime. Dermatology specialist Dr. Henry Chan Hin-lee says, "It helps to remove the bad and dead skin cells for skin regeneration to be most effective. The superficial skin, or epidermis, takes about 28 days to start a new cycle. Reducing pigments and blackheads can accelerate skin renewal. The deeper layer, the dermis, can be thickened in this way." Since our skin cell cycle - the time it takes for cells to move from the lower to the uppermost layer of the skin - slows down as we age, exfoliation is a necessary way to alleviate the effects of aging. Cell cycles in younger women range from 26 to 40 days, but they grow longer as women age, setting the stage for wrinkles, sunspots and dryness.

According to Dr. Chan, "The damage UV light induces in the skin increases when pigments absorb the UV and prevent it from reaching the dermis. When the female hormone oestrogen decreases, the skin texture changes." Which means UV light is more of a worry as women grow older.

So exfoliation can ease the damage of pigmentation, combat winkles and allow skin to show less signs of aging. According to beautician Vicky Neale, training manager at Paua Spa (Elemis Day Spa, 9/f Century Square, D'Aguilar Street 25216660), exfoliation allows the skin to breathe and stay clean and clear because exfoliants both remove the barriers against moisturizing and compliment facial treatments. While exfoliation is suitable for all skin types, she cautions that it has to be customized to suit the individual.

Not All Exfoliants are Equal

And that brings us to what these microdermabrasion skin peelers are really made of. Neale explains that over-the-counter exfoliants come in several forms, and are low in concentration compared with the super-strength microdermabrasion products used at clinics and usually available only on prescription. These different forms of exfoliants are composed of beads (such as seeds, kernels or microspheres), enzymes (alpha-hydroxy acids or AHA; glycolic acid from sugar cane; malic acid from apples; and lactic acid from milk), salicylic or betahydroxy acid (BHA), and vitamin A derivates.
"Generally," says Neale, "AHAs are friendly to all types of skin but the concentration and contact time on the skin has to be customized to suit the individual." Acne-prone and oily skin usually benefits most from BHA or salicylic acid owing to their anti-inflammatory properties. However, they may not be good for people with dry and sensitive skin, who should instead stick to good facial washes with natural exfoliants. Retin A, an ingredient commonly found in highly-concentrated exfoliants such as microdermabrasion products, can actually worsen skin conditions and contribute to more wrinkles if it is applied for more than six months continuously. Chan cautions that certain people develop reactions or even allergies to different agents, so people should find out what kind of skin type they have before using exfoliants. Glycolic or salicylic acid is good for most skin types. People with eczema or over-sensitive skin should stay away from exfoliants altogether because they may cause further irritation.

Frequency Rules

Chan says people with oily skin can exfoliate everyday using low-concentration products that have mild effects, but for normal skin it is particularly useful to apply exfoliants to the T-zone. Use the exfoliants prescribed by clinics, especially microdermabrasion products, only once every two to four weeks, since these are considerably more powerful.

But when you're chasing the elusive promise of eternally radiant skin, it's easy to get carried away. "Broken skin, soreness, irritation, weeping, prolonged redness, dryness and excess sensitivity to the sun all point to skin irritation that resulted from excessive exfoliation," says Chan. In severe cases, scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (the darkening of injured skin) can result. If this happens, you should stop using exfoliants for at least one week and apply lotion to repair the skin until it is fully recovered. Freshly exfoliated skin has to be treated with a level of care commensurate with the strength of the treatment and aftercare. Sun exposure and exceedingly dry atmospheres should be avoided.

Neale adds that artificial fragrances, particularly those that are alcohol-based, should be avoided, as they accelerate skin drying. Sheer and non-abrasive exfoliant beads should be employed to prevent tears in thin and fragile skin. At the end of the day, while bottled skin exfoliants are convenient, only registered doctors that specialize in aesthetic procedures can administer medical-grade microdermabrasion products, and only then under supervised conditions. The simple rule is that any skin product with the word "abrasion" in its name should be handled with care. ■

		Biotherm Line Peel Daily Visible Renewer ($435 for 50ml. Seibu, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-4554). This creamy gel restores skin tone by activating the skin's self-regenerating system. It contains silicium, which strengthens collagen production, while minerals and vitamins soothe the skin and reduce wrinkles.
		La Prairie Cellular Microdermabrasion Cream ($2,100 for 125ml. Shop 226, Zone OC, Ocean Centre, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2377-1721; Lane Crawford, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay 2118-3638). This cream is suitable for all skin types. Ground natural diamonds, freshwater pearls and quartz crystals are blended into a puree with calming plant extracts, vitamin E and a cellular complex. This mixture polishes and regenerates the skin, while boosting microcirculation. The cream comes with three sponge applicators meant for different parts of the body - white for the face, pink for the body and black for problem areas.
		Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant ($480 for 74g. Leonard Drake, Shop 03-06, 35/F, Soundwill Plaza, 38 Russell St., Causeway Bay, 3156-1181). Formulated to be gentle enough for all skin types, this fragrance-free product contains rice-based enzymes that smoothe the skin and accelerate cell renewal. The skin brightening complex of bearberry and grapefruit helps balance uneven pigmentation, while rice bran extracts regulate melanin production.
		L'Oreal Refinish Microdermabrasion Kit ($189 at B2-11, Langham Place, 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 2828-1437). The gentle Micro-Dermabrasion Exfoliator (59ml) uses aluminum oxide crystals to polish the skin and Biosaccharide Complex to soothe and calm it. The Post-Treatment Protective Moisturizer (50ml) hydrates and protect the skin with an SPF of 15 and vitamin E.
		Estee Lauder Idealist Micro-D ($390 for 75ml. Estee Lauder, Unit 1078-79, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 3188-9313; Lane Crawford, Times Square). This cream has skin-friendly beads to remove dead skin cells and restore natural glow. Its "TripleSphere Refinishing System" constitutes three sizes of beads for comprehensive polishing: large microcrystalline beads shed skin flakes, medium-sized bamboo flakes refine the skin and minimize the pores, and miniscule jade beads provide intense skin buffing.
		Peter Thomas Roth Botanical Buffing Beads ($300 for 8oz. Ziz Skincare for Men, 5/F, Hang Shun Building, 10-12 Wyndham St., Central, 2111-2767; Lane Crawford, Times Square). This is a fine jojoba bead scrub suitable for all skin types. The fine beads and botanical nutrients not only help exfoliate dead cells on the skin’s surface, thus allowing moisturizers to penetrate better, but also open clogged pores. The scrub also emulsifies the sebum, or oil, that contributes to blackheads and whiteheads.
		H2O Sea Results Overnight Perfecting Peel ($320 for 40ml. G/F, Clover Commercial Building, 69 Percival Street, Causeway Bay, 3182-7777) This peel promises a three-pronged attack: first, glycolic and salicylic acids scour away dead cells; then provitamins A, B and C increase elasticity, and anti-aging minerals such as spirulina and nori enhance the skin's resilience. Finally, a sea mineral complex boosts the skin's hydration level.

SCMP