Roji review: an authentic Japanese izakaya experience in Central Hong Kong
- The term izakaya might be overused, but this D’Aguilar Street haunt offers the real deal: neighbourhood vibes and tasty snacks to wash down with a whisky highball
- The chicken katsu was delicious while the A4 Wagyu beef has a soft bite – but the vegetables actually stole the show
Izakayas are usually small, inexpensive neighbourhood haunts that serve tasty dishes and snacks to go down with alcohol.
While the term feels overused in Hong Kong, Roji strikes a chord as a true blue version of the Japanese watering hole tradition. If it weren’t for social distancing rules, the high communal table surrounded by barstools would invite diners to walk around and socialise.
Highballs are the highlight of the drinks menu and the classic highball (HK$95) is a medley of Miyagikyo whisky, bonito umeshu and sherry that results in a refreshing smoky, fruit-flavoured drink.
As for food, we kick off the evening with torotaku (HK$158), a purée of lightly seasoned tuna and chives portioned with nori sheets. The seaweed sheets melt away to the tasty mix of toro with pickled daikon. We also greatly enjoyed the Japanese giant clams (HK$198) that are the size of a child’s palm, simmered in a blend of sake and house broth.
The chicken katsu (HK$168) – juicy, tender chicken thighs encased in a crispy breadcrumb and served with a sharp tonkatsu sauce – was delicious as well. While the A4 Wagyu beef (HK$298) has a soft bite, the vegetables actually stole the show on this dish, with baby carrots, peas, corn and white turnip soaking up the wonderfully bright shiso and ponzu sauce.
The skillet pancake (HK$148) felt out of place on a menu dominated by small plates and highballs. So there you have it: Roji is a place to eat, drink and be merry. So much so that you do not even want dessert.
