Belon: Neo-Parisian sophistication and fine French dining in Soho, Hong Kong

Although technically it is not a new restaurant, this well-loved neo-Parisian eatery has changed a lot since chef Daniel Calvert left and it moved to its new first-floor spot on Elgin Street. The design is by Joyce Wang Studio offering a more sophisticated ambience which matches the elevated cuisine. It has sculptural aesthetics and is done in deep, rich tones and textures. New chef Matthew Kirkley, from Chicago’s two-Michelin-starred L2O and San Francisco’s three-Michelin Coi, reimagines dishes from Belon’s past and showcases his own creative dishes, too.

The highlight of our dinner was a divine foie gras tartlet with Sauternes (HK$188/two) – a quenelle of smooth duck liver foie gras mousse whisked with cream and Sauternes sweet wine. Another good starter was the carrot stroopwafel with dill pistou (HK$78/two) made of thin carrot wafers filled with dill pistou. Kirkley’s signature is turbot with beurre cancalaise (HK$888) – the turbot is poached in butter and root vegetables are blanched and layered to mimic fish scales. The beurre blanc sauce features finely diced leek, turnip, watermelon radish, carrot, fennel, onion and mushrooms which is seasoned with apple, lime, chives and dill and enlivened with champagne vinegar, vermouth and citrus zest. This delicious dish comes at a hefty price, though.

Another good main is the pigeon pithivier with carrot and cabbage (HK$768) which features the pigeon breast encased in layers of spinach and mushroom then enveloped in a buttery pastry crust. A thin crepe made with pigeon liver separates the puff pastry and mushroom.

To end, we had the île flottante with almond and caramel (HK$188), which sees a caramel sauce core cloaked in a pillowy swiss meringue dome, set afloat on a bed of brandy-infused creme anglaise. The sides of the meringue dome are studded with multicoloured almond tuile flowers.

Belon

1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street, Soho