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Rioja gets a Bordeaux makeover at one Spanish winery

Cristina Forner of Marqués de Cáceres represents the modern face of Rioja. Born in the Loire Valley, France, she received her wine training in Bordeaux before returning to Spain to work in the family winery.

Marqués de Cáceres was founded in 1970 by Enrique Forner, Christina's father. He was an innovator for the times. Traditional red Rioja tended to receive extended ageing in American oak; a period of 10 to 15 years was not uncommon. In the 1960s, Rioja wines were typically blended from wines from a variety of different zones, resulting in a loss of individual wine personality. They tended to be oaky, oxidative and at times lacking in fruit. Enrique, with the help of renowned Bordeaux wine expert Emile Peynaud, transformed Rioja's wine style. He started by improving the quality of the fruit in the vineyard. In the cellar, the time the wines spent in oak was reduced to preserve fruit purity. They switched from American to French oak. This reduced the sweet vanilla flavours, letting the fruit flavours shine. Under Cristina's stewardship, they continue to produce consistently high quality with value. Adhering to that quality, they hired the famed Michel Rolland, who helps maintain a style popular with international wine drinkers. Cristina has expanded the portfolio to encompass wine regions Rias Baixas and Rueda.

 

 

 

 

Albarino, from the Spanish northwest province of Rias Baixas, is a fairly new addition to the winery's portfolio. It's named after Deusa Nai, the goddess of fertility in Galicia. Apple, grapefruit, peach, citrus notes. Medium body with crisp acidity, a slight salty tang. Very refreshing and approachable. A perfect aperitif for a hot summer's day. Will pair well with seafood, white meat and barbecued meats. HK$160

 

 

 

 

 

 

Made from 85 per cent tempranillo and 15 per cent garnacha, it's an attractive ruby red with strawberry, summer fruits on the nose. Full bodied, balanced acidity, a touch of tannins on the finish. A robust rosé wine that has the stamina to stand up to meat dishes such as duck, smoked fish and shellfish. HK$118

 

 

 

 

 

 

Made from 50-year-old vines and produced only in good years, gives this concentrated fruit. Gran reserva indicates that the wine must be aged for at least four years. The Marqués de Cáceres has been aged for 28 months in oak, and 6½ in the bottle. It is released only when ready for drinking. A blend of 85 per cent tempranillo with the rest garnacha and graciano. Savoury, meaty, spicy, notes. Medium body, tight structure, good fruit intensity, firm tannins with a long finish. Still youthful, quite complex. Try with beef, lamb or braised meat. HK$328

 

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