Sai Kung Town - a walking tour of the neighbourhood
The former fishing village has a reputation for being a laid-back enclave, but there is a lot more going on there than meets the eye
The bamboo theatre rises at the end of a narrow street, its festive red banners announcing a celebration in honour of the goddess Tin Hau. Inside, hundreds of local residents enjoy a matinee showing of Cantonese opera while curious onlookers stand outside, watching the performance through the grid of bamboo scaffolding.
It's not an uncommon sight in the New Territories, but this is a bit different. Next to the theatre, groups of expatriates sip beer and wine. Dog walkers stop to chat with friends and neighbours. Even blocksaway from the theatre, as the warble of opera singing fades into the distance, a relaxed, festive atmosphere remains.
That atmosphere is a hallmark of Sai Kung. "I never want to leave," says Karina O'Connell, who has lived in the area for 25 years and praises the "friendly community vibe" along with easy access to beaches and country parks. That vibe is most evident in Sai Kung's town centre. A fishing village for centuries it was transformed in the 1970s when a resettlement project for villagers displaced by the High Island Reservoir created the leafy squares and low-rise apartment blocks that define the area today. In recent years, soaring real estate values and a growing number of weekend visitors have pushed up rents and drawn in chain stores and upscale businesses that would have seemed out of place a decade ago.
SIP
It may now be easy to get a single origin pour over or an obsessively crafted shot of espresso in Hong Kong, but that certainly wasn't the case when Colour Brown opened nine years ago. Located on the pedestrianised main street of the old town — the historic fishing village — it was one of the first in the city to roast its own beans. Now it is a destination for those looking not only for a wide variety of coffees, from rich Indonesia Gayo Mountain beans to the fruity variety from Yunnan, but also a panoply of coffee brewing equipment.
"People are now willing to try new coffee — their minds are open," says senior manager Mike Lau. "Most people still prefer their coffee bitter, but more and more like are looking for fruity, acidic African brews."
