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Kylie Knott

Stockton
	32 Wyndham Street, Central
	Tel: 2565 5268
 
The vibe: tucked away down an alley off Wyndham Street, Stockton is like stepping into late Victorian London. Think dark wood-panelled walls, classic furniture (the huge leather chairs swallow you up), and antiques from Parisian markets.
Behind the huge marble bar are row after row of glowing bottles and there are a couple of small intimate rooms for privacy.
For now, Stockton is open from 6pm until late Monday to Saturday, but will soon be open from lunchtime.
Yes, there is food and the menu reflects the indulgent lifestyles of a bygone era with rich dishes such as farmed Manchurian caviar, whole lobster salad and cracked mud crab.
The drinks: with such a decadent menu, one would expect a discerning drinks list - and that's exactly what you get. The Rhum in Fashion (HK$120) - Blackwell Jamaican spiced rum, Ron Zacapa, lime zest, vanilla bitters and chocolate bitters - was silky smooth. Meanwhile, my friend's Ribston Apple (HK$130) - a mix of spiced rum, Amaretto, apple cider, honey and cinnamon - was oozing with flavour and was, thankfully, not dominated by the Amaretto.
The Nurse Candy, comprising Ron Zacapa, apricot brandy, ginger beer, Oleo Saccharum, Peychaud's Bitters, lemon gum, Granny Smith apples, candied ginger and orgeat, looked tempting but was only available in a punchbowl (HK$1,400).
If champagne is your tipple then there is a selection from smaller houses - Delamotte, Aubry and Larmandier-Bernier, to name a few.
Whisky lovers are also in for a treat - Stockton has more than 150 varieties from Scotland, Ireland, America and Japan. There's a small, impressive wine list, but only a few are available by the glass. Stockton also barrel-ages and leather-ages its own spirits.
The verdict: Stockton has all the hallmarks of a private club which, thankfully, it isn't. But it is the sort of place where you can expect to see wheeling and dealing banker types. And while on this chilly week night the dark cosy setting and rum cocktails hit the spot, it remains to be seen whether this sort of environment will be popular when the summer heat and humidity kicks in.
kylie.knott@scmp.com
 


Bar review: Stockton in Central

Kylie Knott