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Erika Na

Jeonju in South Korea may be just a two-and-a-half-hour bus ride from Seoul, but the city feels a world apart from the country’s capital.
A third of the size of Seoul, Jeonju is the capital and largest city in North Jeolla province – or Jeollabuk-do in Korean – but has a population of only around 650,000.
The city has been an internationally certified “slow city” since 2011, meaning its urban planning and infrastructure are designed to encourage residents to live a slower pace of life. But the main draw to visitors is its long and rich history.
For many centuries, Jeonju has been the administrative centre of the Korean peninsula’s “breadbasket” region (an area that produces large quantities of wheat or other grains). It is also the hometown of Yi Seong-gye (King Taejo), who founded Korea’s last dynastic kingdom, the Joseon dynasty, in 1392.

One of the main attractions and points of interest in the city is the Jeonju Hanok Village. A hanok is a traditional Korean house originating in the Joseon dynasty that is characterised by beautifully curved roofs and architecture that emphasises harmony with its surrounding natural environment.
The Jeonju Hanok Village is the largest of its kind in South Korea, with more than 900 hanoks, and has been a popular tourist destination for decades. Many famous historical Korean dramas have been filmed there, including The King’s Affection (the first Korean drama to ever receive a US Emmy award), The Red Sleeve, Sungkyunkwan Scandal, Mr. Sunshine and The King: Eternal Monarch.
Nowadays, tourists from around the world visit the village in rented hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) – braving summer heat and winter frosts – to take the perfect selfies for social media.
The village is particularly famous for its autumn foliage but has a distinctive charm all year around. During the spring and summer, lush green leaves add layers of vitality to the traditional houses, while hanoks covered in powdery winter snow are a sight not to be missed.

What is special about Jeonju is that many of its picturesque spots are real historical locations, with some dating as far back as the 14th century.
Built in 1354, Jeonju Hyanggyo is one such example. Hyanggyo means “provincial school”, the first of which were established by the central government during the Goryeo dynasty (918-1392), which preceded the Joseon dynasty.
The importance of hyanggyo was elevated during the Joseon dynasty because the kingdom was heavily rooted in Confucianism, an ideology that puts humanism at the forefront. There was a rule to build one hyanggyo per town that would teach Confucianism, so that the whole country could develop in balance.
There are around 200 hyanggyo left in South Korea and the Jeonju Hyanggyo is one of the more well maintained.
Embodying the importance of ancestor worship in Confucianism, the Jeonju Hyanggyo has a shrine for Confucian saints, including many Chinese sages. Enshrined at the hyanggyo are Confucius, his 10 disciples, the six sages of Song Confucianism, as well as the 18 most respected Korean Confucian scholars throughout history.

Those who might not be interested in looking at ancestral tablets can instead admire the huge ginkgo trees – some of which are more than 400 years old – that create giant umbrellas of golden yellow leaves during autumn.
Historically, ginkgo trees were planted in hyanggyo in the wish that Confucianism students would grow unruffled by the vices in the world, just like how ginkgo trees are rarely affected by pests.
Only a few minutes’ walk away is the Gyeonggijeon Shrine, which was built in 1410 for King Taejo. The shrine is surrounded by a spacious and peaceful garden area filled with bamboo that is lovely to walk around.
The shrine itself is small and rather worn down, but still significant in many ways. It is one of six shrines that were built for King Taejo during the Joseon dynasty, with the other five spread across the peninsula: in Seoul and Gyeongju in South Korea, and Pyongyang, Gaeseong and Yonghung, in what is now North Korea.

The portrait of Taejo painted on silk was sent here from the capital Hanyang (now Seoul) in 1872. Displayed in the Royal Portrait Museum located inside the shrine – along with royal portraits of ensuing kings – it is the only original version remaining.
Similar to hyanggyo, such a shrine is representative of the deep commitment to Confucianism during the Joseon dynasty, and carries particular weight because it is where jesa – the Confucian ritual that commemorates ancestors through food and drink offerings – for the founding king was held.
It is rather ironic, then, that right across from the Gyeonggijeon Shrine is Jeondong Cathedral, the most important site for Roman Catholics in the country, which was built where the country’s first recorded Catholic martyrs were executed, in 1791, for refusing to carry out jesa rituals.
It is said that 33-year-old Yun Ji-chung and 41-year-old Kwon Sang-yeon (whose baptismal names were Paul and James) cried out “Jesus, Maria!” up to the very moment that they were beheaded. Throughout the rest of the Joseon dynasty, an estimated 8,000 to 10,000 Korean Catholics were killed by the unforgiving Confucian government.

The beautiful Romanesque-style Catholic church – the first Western architecture in Jeolla province – is recognised as a holy site and shrine by the Catholic order.
The land was bought in 1891 by a French priest, François-Xavier Baudounet, with the church built between 1908 and 1914. It was designed by another French priest, Victor Poisnel, who had previously designed the Myeongdong Cathedral in Seoul.
The cathedral’s floor plan is shaped in the image of the Virgin Mary lying down, and according to the church there is none like it around the world.
There is an interesting connection to China here as well, as it is said that the building’s signature red bricks were baked by around 100 Chinese technicians hired for the job.
You can go inside the church, though taking photos is not allowed. Inside you will find a small yet serene and intimate space, with muted red bricks and understated, simple stained glass windows and arches.
There are statues of the two martyrs outside the church, with both dressed in hanbok and wearing the traditional Korean men’s high bun hairstyle, called sangtu. One of them is carrying a cross, while looking up at the sky pleadingly.

It may be a relief to today’s visitors to Jeonju that the ideological dogmatism that sought to resolve dissent through beheadings is a thing of the past.
It will be an even bigger relief that now they have finished absorbing the rich history of Jeonju, it is finally time for a lighter experience: indulging in all the Korean delicacies that the city is so famous for, such as bibimbap, tteokgalbi (minced beef short ribs) and kongnamul gukbap (bean sprout soup with rice).


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Asia travel

What to do in and near Jeonju Hanok Village in South Korea, a top Instagram hotspot

The Jeonju Hanok Village is the largest of its kind in South Korea. Photo: Getty Images

The Jeonju Hanok Village, the largest of its kind in South Korea, with more than 900 traditional houses, is one of many things to do in Jeonju that reflect its long and rich history. Photo: Getty Images

The Jeonju Hanok Village attracts many domestic and international visitors. Photo: Erika Na

A cat relaxes on the roof of one of the hanoks. Photo: Erika Na

Jeonju Hyanggyo in the Jeonju Hanok Village. Photo: Shutterstock

The Gyeonggijeon Shrine was built in 1410. Photo: Erika Na

Jeondong Cathedral was completed in 1914. Photo: Erika Na

The statues of Yun Ji-chung (Paul) and Kwon Sang-yeon (James) outside Jeondong Cathedral. Photo: Erika Na

Going to Taipei in Taiwan? Visit hip Zhongshan district for its food, hotels and shopping

Many new restaurants have set up shop on Chifeng Street. Photo: Mavis Teo

Dusty workshops and hardware stores exist alongside trendy new cafes and lifestyle shops on Chifeng Street in Taipei’s Zhongshan district. Photo: Mavis Teo

The grilled eel with rice draws long queues of customers at Fei Qian Wu. Photo: Mavis Teo

Many new restaurants have opened on Chifeng Street. Photo: Mavis Teo

Kevin Rose is the head chef of Ad Astra. He was drawn to Taiwan by the quality of its produce. Photo: Ad Astra

Sea urchin waffle at Ad Astra. Photo: Ad Astra

Car repair workshops were once a common sight on Chifeng Street. Photo: Mavis Teo

Galerie, a cafe on Chifeng Street, is very popular for its retro look. Photo: Mavis Teo

The cafe inside Weight Books serves a brioche toast made by celebrity baker Chen Yao-hsun. Photo: Mavis Teo

The lobby of Hotel Indigo Taipei North has lively, cool vibes. Photo: Hotel Indio Taipei North

Inside South Korea’s hidden emergency capital city, built should Manchu forces invade, and why it wasn’t a great success

A gate at Namhansanseong, in South Korea. Photo: Shutterstock

A gate at Namhansanseong, in South Korea. The fortress, built as an emergency capital city should Chinese forces invade Seoul, is a Unesco World Heritage site. Photo: Shutterstock

Namhansanseong is built into a forested mountainside near Seoul. Photo: Ronan O’Connell

The main gate to Namhansanseong. Ronan O’Connell

Roofs of buildings at Namhansanseong. Photo: Ronan O’Connell

An ancient bell sits within the grounds of Namhansanseong. Photo: Ronan O’Connell

Intricate designs adorn the exterior of a structure in Namhansanseong. Photo: Ronan O’Connell

Namhansanseong remains something of a secret to overseas visitors. Photo: Getty Images

Iwijeong pavilion overlooks Namhansanseong. Photo: Ronan O’Connell

Oehaegjeon was the king’s office. Photo: Ronan O’Connell

One of Seoul’s last ‘moon villages’, why Haebangchon is worth a visit – its history, what to do, and where to eat and drink

A five-way intersection in Haebangchon, one of Seoul’s last “moon villages”, sees the roads that go up and down Namsan mountain and through Haebangchon meet. ​​There are no traffic lights for cars or pedestrians, but somehow it works. Photo: Erika Na

Haebang Presbyterian Church stands tall above Haebangchon and can be seen from across Seoul. Photo: Erika Na

The main street of Haebangchon’s upper section consists of old, local shops and is quite different to the lower section, where stores target expatriates. Photo: Erika Na

Climbing up the steep slopes of Haebangchon is not an easy task for many. Photo: Erika Na

Many cafes and restaurants in Haebangchon’s upper section have rooftop areas where one can take in the expansive view of Seoul. Photo: Erika Na

The main street of Haebangchon’s upper section. Photo: Erika Na

Today, an elevator runs parallel to the 108 Staircase. Photo: Erika Na

Haebangchon’s five-way intersection. Photo: Erika Na

Sunset from the upper section of Haebangchon. Photo: Erika Na

Hansin Onggi has been operating in Haebangchon since 1967. Photo: Erika Na

Outside Hansin Onggi stand stacks of onggis. Photo: Erika Na

One of South Korea’s most important Buddhist temples, Jogyesa is an oasis of peace and tranquillity in bustling Seoul

Jogyesa, in Seoul’s Jongno-gu district, was the first Buddhist temple to be built within the fortress walls of the South Korean capital, in 1910. Photo: Jogyesa Templestay

A huge tree thought to be around 500 years old stands outside the hall and is decorated with lanterns during major Buddhist festivals such as the Buddha’s Birthday. Photo: Jogyesa Templestay

An octagonal 10-storied pagoda next to the main temple houses what is thought to be Buddha’s sarira. Photo: Jogyesa Templestay

Coloured lanterns decorate Jogyesa. Photo: Erika Na

The Templestay Information Centre is located across the street from Jogyesa. Photo: Templestay Information Centre

Visitors take photos at Jogyesa. Photo: Erika Na

Visitors make lotus lanterns at the Templestay Information Centre. Photo: Temple Stay Information Centre

The Korean DMZ: bridges and bullet holes, tunnels and memorials, and a lush strip of no man’s land riddled with landmines

Piers of the old Dokgae Bridge amid the lush greenery of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in South Korea. Photo: Erika Na

For many, a trip to South Korea isn’t complete without seeing the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) and peering into secretive North Korea (above). Photo: Erika Na

The fence in the middle (above) is the Southern Limit Line (SLL), 2km from the actual border in the demilitarised zone (DMZ). Photo: Erika Na

The Freedom Bridge in Imjingak, where 12,773 prisoners of war were exchanged in 1953 after an armistice was signed to end hostilities in the Korean war. Photo: Erika Na

The Mangbaedan Memorial Altar, where those who live in South Korea pay respects to their ancestors in North Korea. Photo: Erika Na

The view north from the viewing deck of the Dokgae Bridge in Imjingak shows some of the piers of the old bridge with bullet marks – circled with red paint – from the Korean war. On the left is the Imjingang Railway Bridge. Photo: Erika Na

The yellow line on the Dokgae Bridge indicates that you are entering the Civilian Controlled Zone. Photo: Erika Na

The Dora Observatory within the Civilian Controlled Zone just outside the DMZ, South Korea. Photo: Erika Na

From the Dora Observatory, visitors can look across the border to Kaesong, a city in North Korea. Photo: Erika Na

Tourists take photos outside the Third Infiltration Tunnel which runs underneath the DMZ. Photo: Erika Na

Lifestyle

Travel & Leisure

As well as being a popular place for selfies, Jeonju Hanok Village and surrounding sights have rich histories full of fascinating stories


South Korea’s Jeonju city is full of things to do that exhibit its rich history, particularly the Instagram-worthy Jeonju Hanok Village and nearby attractions like the Gyeonggijeon Shrine.
