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Hokkaido beyond the ski slopes – and why wealthy foreigners are buying homes in Japan’s north

  • People flock to Japan’s north for some of the best snow in the world, but it is also known for its woodlands, lakes and beautiful coastline
  • More travellers are visiting the area in summer, including wealthy elite seeking second homes

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Mount Yotei is a popular destination for travellers both in winter and summer. Photo: Niseko Photography and Guiding
It’s a hot, sunny day, and I’m looking out at Hokkaido’s mighty Usu volcano about an hour’s drive from Japan’s skiing Mecca, Niseko.
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I’m learning to crack open a spiky sea urchin shell and carefully scoop out delicate morsels of buttery, bright orange uni. I then remove white medallions of flesh from scallop shells. Both are eaten chopped over rice – a dish that I’m still dreaming about.

“I grew up in Connecticut, [United States], so I’m used to having nature around,” says Hong Kong native and former banker Ian Fong, who founded Hokkaidian Homestead with his Japanese wife Noriko Matsushita last year. “That is why I wanted my daughters to have the same kind of upbringing.”

Serving a mix of European and Japanese delights, the dining and culinary workshop at Hokkaidian Homestead is an immersive experience for travellers. The concept is farm – and sea – to table, paired with lush wines and sake.

Cracking open local uni. Photo: Aaron Jamieson
Cracking open local uni. Photo: Aaron Jamieson
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The region around Niseko is known for its food and its natural beauty: volcanic mountains, woodlands, lakes and a glistening coastline. People flock here in winter for some of the best snowboarding and skiing in the world , but in recent times the area has become a drawcard for travellers in the warmer months, too.

“The beauty of Hokkaido is the changing of the seasons,” says Emilia Lopez, another Hong Kong resident. “I love … to go horseback riding and hiking.”

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