The mornings start with a casual glance out of the window. Each day the falling snow transforms the landscape, concealing the town and revealing the mountains, which surround the hostel.

With coffee brewed the maps come out. Routes are discussed in detail and decisions are made. Bags are packed, search beacons tested and the day begins. A short walk up through the town of Akakura leads to the first lifts of the day, taken as high as they go.

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Situated at the northern end of the Japanese Alps under the gaze of Mount Myoko ,it is not unusual for 10 to 15 metres of snow to fall over the course of a season here.

Resorts that surround the onsen (hot spring) town of Akakura offer up a little more than some of Japan’s other, more well-known locations. Not only do authorities allow side- and back-country skiing, the local community and the enthusiasts actively promote it. This opens up countless untracked lines through open terrain and tight tree runs on soft powder snow.

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The saying “you have to earn your turns” rings true as we begin our hike. Powder snow that fell the day before sometimes reaches over waist height, making it hard for even snow shoes and skins to work. A winding trail is cut up to the peak and, with thighs burning, some rest is taken with views of the expansive Alpine range.