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Healthy Gourmet: Straight from the earth

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Margaret Xu, head chef of Yin Yang restaurant in Wan Chai, believes in a from-farm-to-table philosophy and modernising old dishes such as her yellow earth chicken. Photos: May Tse, Margaret Xu

More than a decade ago, when organic farming was given little attention in Hong Kong, chef Margaret Xu started championing the from-farm-to-table process at her vegetable garden and secluded kitchen in Yuen Long.

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"Organic is not a business opportunity, it is a life choice," says Xu. "Organic farms take longer to grow crops, they require more labour, and their output is not reliable. [But it] improves the environment, gives us healthier food and, possibly because of the higher cost, helps us to eat less."

When it comes to eating locally grown food, I have reservations. Xu says eating locally is a lifestyle choice, not a gourmet choice. Locally grown foods are not necessarily the best, although they have a better carbon footprint.

Eating locally starts by cooking or ordering local traditional dishes that require local ingredients: for example, eat steamed chicken with dried lily flower with black fungus and not a caprese salad.

The famous is not simply Italian; it is the local product of a few selected municipalities of four regions in central and southern Italy.

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The cheese's distinct qualities mainly depend on the local milk, environmental conditions and the traditional working methods of the specific area of production. So authentic mozzarella cannot be sourced locally in Hong Kong. I would not advise to order bak choi in Naples either.
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