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How Shaoxing wine, once used only for cooking, has made it onto Michelin-star drink menus

After a period of decline in which it was relegated to the kitchen, Shaoxing wine is finally reclaiming its status as a refined drink

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Artisanal Shaoxing wine brands such as Dong Qu make single vintages that are poured at top-tier restaurants. Photo: Dong Qu

When you think of Shaoxing wine, do you picture it in a glass or sizzling in a wok?

For most, Shaoxing wine is that clear, amber-hued cooking essential with a distinctive aromatic nose that lends sweet and briny flavours to food, deepening and enriching dishes.

But this 3,000-year-old yellow wine, made from glutinous rice, water from Jianhu Lake and a wheat-based yeast, is so much more than just a seasoning.

It is one of the oldest wines in the world and was a beverage of choice in China for the upper classes during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, as well as being a staple at official banquets.

Workers at the Dong Qu Shaoxing Winery shift bags of glutinous rice to be used in winemaking. Photo: Evelyn Chen
Workers at the Dong Qu Shaoxing Winery shift bags of glutinous rice to be used in winemaking. Photo: Evelyn Chen
Jianhu Lake water is mixed with yeast and rice at Dong Qu Shaoxing Winery. This mixture is poured into cooled rice in a vat and mixed, after which they sit for four days. Photo: Evelyn Chen
Jianhu Lake water is mixed with yeast and rice at Dong Qu Shaoxing Winery. This mixture is poured into cooled rice in a vat and mixed, after which they sit for four days. Photo: Evelyn Chen

After a period of decline, in part because of the Japanese invasion of China and Communist Party rule, Shaoxing wine is finally reclaiming the spotlight.

Born, bred and educated in Singapore, Evelyn Chen is a food and travel writer and editor with bylines in CNN, CNBC, New York Times and finedininglovers.com, amongst others. In between dinners and travel assignments, the former Zagat editor shares her favourite food discoveries on Instagram.
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