Chef of Bourke’s, new Hong Kong wine bar, on avoiding the burnout of fine-dining kitchens
Tara Margarita reflects on cooking with ‘simple human love’ at new wine bar Bourke’s and how she tries to foster a better kitchen culture
“Being hospitable and courteous is our way of welcoming you into our home, because we’re feeding you,” says Tara Margarita, head chef of Bourke’s, a new wine bar and restaurant in Hong Kong Island’s bustling SoHo area.
“It’s plain, simple, human love, and that’s all I’ve wanted to do.”
Inspired by the liveliness of Bourke Street, one of the main thoroughfares in Melbourne, Australia, as well as by the country’s culinary culture – shaped by immigrants – Bourke’s is “a little more casual” than a traditional European-style wine bar, Margarita says.
“With the French ones, there are cheeses and cold cuts, but Australian food is so diverse and open-ended, which is perfect for me, as I have absorbed so much from everywhere I’ve lived – Manila, Jakarta, Hong Kong, Paris – and my food translates that.”
Margarita says the concept of Bourke’s is “nice bar food, but refined” and that she draws upon techniques she learned during her time in fine dining.
“Just as an example, for something as simple as the croquettes, I blended the panko – Japanese breadcrumbs – so that they would come out less rustic compared to other restaurants’ creations,” she says.
