‘When I lost the star, I didn’t give up’: how Singapore chef behind Hawker Chan, once the world’s cheapest Michelin-star restaurant, still sells 1,000 meals a day

Hawker Chan in Singapore became the world’s cheapest Michelin-star restaurant when it was recognised in the coveted guide in 2016. But in 2021 the star was lost

Undeterred, the stall’s founder, Chan Hong Meng, opened outlets around the world. Some people say his food isn’t as good, but he takes criticism ‘in his stride’

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Singapore food stall Hawker Chan’s founder Chan Hong Meng. The chef talks about becoming the world’s cheapest Michelin-star restaurant, losing its place in the coveted guide and how staying motivated enabled him to expand his business regardless. Photo: AFP

Published: 4:15pm, 7 Jul 2023Updated: 8:07am, 11 Jul 2023

Chan Hong Meng’s journey to becoming one of Asia’s most famous chefs wasn’t easy.

The 56-year-old Malaysian-born chef started as an apprentice at a Hong Kong restaurant when he was just 18 years old. It took over two decades before he decided to open his Singapore hawker stall – named Hawker Chan – in 2009.

And in that tiny stall, he served thousands of patrons his version of chicken rice – the city state’s de facto national dish – which comprises roasted chicken, seasoned rice, and soy sauce.

In 2016, Chan was catapulted to stardom when his stall was just one of three street-food vendors awarded a coveted Michelin star – a distinction once reserved for only the greatest of haute cuisine. His US$2.25 signature dish was dubbed the world’s cheapest Michelin-star meal.

Chan Hong Meng at the Michelin Guide Singapore’s unveiling in 2016, in which his food stall, Hawker Chan, was awarded one star. Photo: AFP

At his tiny stall, at 78 Smith Street in Singapore’s Chinatown Complex Market and Food Centre, Chan says customers queued for up to five hours for a taste of his food.