Restaurant review: Henry at Rosewood in Tsim Sha Tsui – beef the star at buzzing grill and smokehouse

Be sure to order the butcher’s shop terrine and seven pepper beef brisket at this large, atmospheric restaurant headed by chef Nathan Green

Desserts were also excellent – the corn bread souffle with vanilla ice cream, bacon bits and bourbon caramel was demolished in minutes

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Inside Henry at the Rosewood Hong Kong hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Published: 4:30pm, 23 Jan 2020Updated: 10:30pm, 23 Jan 2020

It took awhile before we were able to get a table at Henry, the grill and smokehouse restaurant at the Rosewood Hong Kong hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui. Well, we could have eaten at 6.30pm or 9pm, but that was inconvenient. We resorted to doing it the old-fashioned way – picking up the phone to call – and finally got a prime-time table at 8pm.

The restaurant is headed by chef Nathan Green, whose food I’ve eaten at 22 Ships and, more recently, the now-closed Rhoda. The space is large and buzzing, with a great atmosphere.

This isn’t a place to come if you’re vegetarian – the menu is meat-focused, especially towards beef.

We had three starters, and the butcher’s shop terrine (HK$198) was by far our favourite. It was one of the best country-style terrines we’ve tasted. The thick slab was meaty, roughly textured and complexly flavoured, studded with pistachios and served with grainy mustard, cornichons and a delicious cherry peach chutney.

Butcher’s shop terrine. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Snake River Farm barbecued pork belly ($168) was succulent, tender and sweet.