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How German wine from Saxony has been transformed by fall of communism

  • The entire winemaking industry in Germany’s eastern state of Saxony has seen a rebirth since the country’s reunification
  • The state only produces a fraction of the nation’s wine, but it is renowned for its quality

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Klaus Zimmerling in his vineyard in Pillnitz near Dresden, eastern Germany. Photo: Ronny Hartmann/AFP

Klaus Zimmerling was bored with his mechanical engineering job, when the 1989 fall of the Berlin Wall gave him the impetus to turn his life around.

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“At first I didn’t believe it,” he says. “Then I slowly realised that things would change and it was the occasion to start something new.”

Ditching his job in Dresden, he retrained as a winegrower and invested in a parcel of land perched on the heights of the city. Today, the 60-year-old is the proud owner of a vineyard that produces vintages that have been served in Michelin-star restaurants like Noma in Denmark.

The entire winemaking industry in Germany’s eastern state of Saxony has seen a rebirth since the country’s reunification. While the end of the communist East largely spelt the collapse of the region’s industries, small hold vineyards sprang up as state-owned farming co-operatives that once produced food for the masses were dissolved, split up and sold off to private owners.

Zimmerling admires his grapes in his vineyard. Photo: Ronny Hartmann/AFP
Zimmerling admires his grapes in his vineyard. Photo: Ronny Hartmann/AFP
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Zimmerling counted among those who pounced on one of these parcels. Recalling the early days of his business, he says: “What was best was the crazy feeling of freedom.”

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