Advertisement

Unpretentious, hearty ... and a bit pricey: Louise at PMQ – first impressions of Odette chef’s Hong Kong restaurant

  • French restaurant is intended to evoke the joy of family meals chef Julien Royer enjoyed growing up in France
  • Dishes inspired by his rustic upbringing share the menu with some flashier offerings in two-storey space previously occupied by Aberdeen Street Social

Reading Time:3 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
Roasted Hong Kong yellow chicken, Niigata rice en cocotte at Louise, French chef Julien Royer’s new restaurant in PMQ, in Hong Kong’s Central district. Photo: Louise
Bernice Chanin Vancouver
If there’s a dish that best represents what French chef Julien Royer is trying to achieve at Louise, his new French restaurant in Hong Kong, it is his local roast yellow chicken (HK$858, and good for four to share).
Advertisement

Perfectly cooked, with crispy skin and tender meat, the whole bird was paraded at our table before being carved. Filling the table was a cast iron pot of Japanese rice seasoned with chicken fat and chicken skin, spring onions and chives, and topped with black truffle shavings, which was mixed before being served; a side salad; and sauteed potatoes with melted Cantal cheese. Together it made for a family-style meal that was unpretentious and hearty.

“As I evolve as a chef, I find myself reaching back to traditions and heritage,” Royer told me back in March when the opening of Louise was announced, and days before his Singapore restaurant Odette was named No 1 in Asia for 2019 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

On Wednesday he was a bit more specific, describing the dishes on the restaurant’s menu as reinterpreted traditional French from his childhood. “Growing up on a farm in Cantal [in France’s Auvergne region], my most precious memories are of family meals,” he writes in the menu’s introduction. “This joy is what we want to invoke at Louise.”

The dining room at Louise in PMQ, Central, designed by Andre Fu. Photo: Louise
The dining room at Louise in PMQ, Central, designed by Andre Fu. Photo: Louise
Advertisement
A parlour table for two at Louise. Photo: Louise
A parlour table for two at Louise. Photo: Louise
loading
Advertisement