Pufferfish in China: diners lured by delicacy now country has bred them poison-free
- A prized delicacy in Japan, where poisonous varieties are prepared by skilled chefs, pufferfish are giving spicy crayfish a run for their money in Beijing
- That’s because Chinese fisheries have bred the poison out of them, prompting the government to lift a ban on their consumption
Move over, crayfish: there’s another delicacy that’s appealing to the hearts – and stomachs – of people in China’s capital.
While Beijingers haven’t given up their love for spicy crayfish –with restaurants specialising in the crustacean easy to spot thanks to their smiling cartoon crayfish signs and window displays – lately they have been enticed by restaurants offering pufferfish.
Establishments across the Chinese city are offering dishes made with the fish, known for its ability to puff up when threatened. That’s not its biggest claim to fame – a toxin found in almost all wild pufferfish is lethal if eaten by humans, there being no known antidote.
Only highly skilled chefs can prepare these fish so they can be served safely to diners. News of fishermen getting poisoned after eating the fish has frequently been reported in China.
Until recently pufferfish, which is also known by its Japanese name, fugu, was offered at high-end private clubs on the sly – because there was a ban on serving it. The reason for the recent proliferation of pufferfish restaurants in Beijing is that Chinese fish farmers have succeeded in breeding non-poisonous varieties, which allowed the Chinese government to lift the ban.
Before it was lifted in 2016, some restaurants were allowed to operate on a trial basis, among them April Puffer. The Chinese government allowed this so it could collect data on pufferfish dining.