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Review | New restaurants in Hong Kong: Hunter, Central – for a meaty feast, from bison to quail

  • Bison tartare, bison-meat osso buco agnolotti, forest mushroom steak, a sensational s’mores Alaska – Hunter’s food is so good we can’t wait to return
  • When we do, we trust the spotty service will have improved

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Why you can trust SCMP
Ossobuco agnolotti at Hunter at The L Place in Central. Photo: Edmond So

Hunter – the restaurant area of Shore Hospitality’s new cocktail and dining concept, The Hunter and The Chase (the bar is downstairs) – has many service problems common to a new establishment.

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To start with they brought us one dish we didn’t order, tried to serve us one dish we had already eaten; cleared my plate even though my guests weren’t done with their meals and, when we finished the mains, cleared the table only partially, leaving behind some empty plates.

But we left the place planning what we’d eat when we came back – because we enjoyed the food.

Having said that, our first dish wasn’t great. Geoduck with yuzu and lime zest (HK$178) was overwhelmingly tart from the tiny pearls of Australian finger lime (not listed in the menu description), which obliterated the sweetness of the raw bivalve.

This was the only dish we didn’t like – everything after that was a vast improvement (although we do wish that fewer dishes had been garnished with raw microgreens/sprouts – they look pretty, but aren’t really that great to eat).

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The interior of Hunter at The L Place. Photo: Edmond So
The interior of Hunter at The L Place. Photo: Edmond So
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