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How to eat sushi the right way, and why you should obey chef’s rules to get the most out of that U$450 omakase meal

Sushi etiquette explained by two celebrated chefs in Hong Kong – why you should be punctual, not wear heavy perfume, and eat each piece with your hands, in a single bite and without delay. As for the wasabi and soy sauce ...

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Yoshiharu Kakinuma, chef of the three-Michelin-star Sushi Shikon in Sheung Wan, explains sushi etiquette. Photo: Roy Issa

Sushi chef Yoshiharu Kakinuma has no trouble recalling the worst customer ever at Sushi Shikon, the three-Michelin-star restaurant that opened in Hong Kong six years ago.

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“It was Valentine’s Day two or three years ago. We have eight seats at the sushi counter, [and that night it was] four couples. One couple did not show up – they came almost at the end of the session. The guy was very showy, saying, ‘I paid a lot of money’,” says the chef known to his customers as Kaki-san.

“He sat down and I tried to explain that he couldn’t eat, that [the other customers] were almost finished. He said, ‘I am the customer, how come you talk to me like this? You can make me some [food].’ I tried to be nice and said, ‘OK, you have 30 minutes, I will try my best.’

“I made him food but he didn’t eat, he just drank champagne and made a lot of noise. I said, ‘Everyone is sharing this [counter], please don’t do that. If you keep doing that I don’t want to make sushi for you.’ He kept doing it so I said ‘No more’.

“Then he started throwing champagne glasses at me, breaking the glasses on the sushi counter, and he [challenged me, saying] ‘Hey chef, come on out’. I tried to push him outside and his girlfriend apologised. When I came back inside, the other customers clapped and said thank you.”

Sushi Shikon in Sheung Wan, the sole overseas branch of Sushi Yoshitake (also with three stars) in Tokyo, and the newer (it opened earlier this year), equally high-end Sushi Saito, the only branch of the three-Michelin-star restaurant of the same name in Tokyo, state upfront their expectations of guests – the former on the etiquette page of its website, the latter on a form you need to sign and email back when you book.
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