Vietnam’s simple pleasures are summed up in Nha Trang, where humble dishes taste heavenly

As the short flight from Hong Kong descends towards Nha Trang in central Vietnam, it becomes apparent that this is a serious seafood destination. Almost as far as the eye can see, the azure waters of the South China Sea are covered in a patchwork of hundreds of floating fish farms.

Shacks – perched precariously on stilts – are surrounded by nets and underwater cages. I later learn that, in the sheltered waters, they farm a variety of produce including butterfish, cobia, shrimp and lobster. Some of the shacks serve as markets, where seafood can be bought, then cooked in nearby floating restaurants.

These fish farms also supply the street food stalls, humble restaurants and high-end resorts that are spreading through Nha Trang, an increasingly popular destination. A new terminal at Cam Ranh International Airport is about to open, while a number of five-star developments have opened along a 25km (16-mile) strip of beachside dunes. Among them is the elegant Anam Resort, which opened last year. A 30-minute drive south of Nha Trang, it boast 300 metres of beachfront as well as a spacious location for its villas and suites.

In common with many visitors, I’m drawn by Vietnam’s vibrant cuisine, and the Anam offers a number of ways to experience it.

On the first evening I head off on my own to get a feel for Nha Trang and some of its signature dishes. The city sits on a long stretch of beach that is popular, particularly in late afternoon with the sun going down, when crowds of locals and visitors take to the water.

There are rudimentary outdoor gyms where lithe old ladies stretch, pedal and squat under the purple and white blossoms lining the seafront. There’s even a Nha Trang surf rescue station, a sort of Vietnamese Baywatch, keeping a watchful eye on people still swimming even as the bright lights of squid boats start illuminating the water offshore.