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Newly opened Paper Moon in Tsim Sha Tsui – food doesn’t come close to matching the view

If problems like off-tasting fish, an unimpressive signature dish and below-par pizza persist, it is unlikely many people will make the long walk to Harbour City’s newest Italian restaurant. Shame, because the view is lovely

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Paper Moon in Harbour City has fantastic views of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong Island.
Bernice Chanin Vancouver

Harbour City continues to expand with even more restaurants for hungry shoppers. The latest is Paper Moon, opened by Paul Kwok of the 1957 & Co restaurant group, along with designers Steve Leung and Tino Kwan.

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The recently opened Italian restaurant is at the far end of Ocean Terminal, past the LCX department store. It might seem like a long walk, but once you arrive, you are rewarded with a sparkling view of Hong Kong Island across the harbour.

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The place goes for the La Dolce Vita feel with black and white stills from films featuring Eddie Redmayne, Faye Wong and Julia Roberts, but your eye always goes back to the view outside. There is also a narrow balcony that is great for drinks now that it’s getting cooler.

A narrow balcony for drinks gives an unobstructed view of the harbour.
A narrow balcony for drinks gives an unobstructed view of the harbour.

The menu is straightforward, although the prices are pretty steep for what you get. The bread basket set a tone of stinginess; the few slices of focaccia and flat bread were a sparse offering in the large, silver-coloured bowl. At least the bread was warm.

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Burrata alla caprese.
Burrata alla caprese.

Our starter of the handmade burrata alla caprese (HK$178) looked tempting, although it was rather small. It was served with tomato wedges, dry-looking rocket leaves and two better-looking butter lettuce leaves. The burrata, though, tasted more like tart yogurt than rich and creamy.

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