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Wine opinion: Bordeaux's 2010 vintage is one for the ages

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2010 Saint-Emilion has a complexity and nobility of texture and finish that perhaps surpasses 2009. Photo: AFP

The 2010 vintage was the best across the Bordeaux region that I have seen in the past 30 years.

It was greater in scale (even if smaller in quantity), in scope and homogeneity than 1982, 1989, 2000 or 2005. The beginning was not spectacular, with a fresh spring and slow flowering, but 10 splendid weeks from the middle of August, with 110-115 days of growth from flowering, produced healthy grapes with a very high sugar content. Sugar levels were as high as 2009, but there was a vastly different character to the fruit, less "roasted" by the sun and more elegant and complex, more classical. Specifically, there was first-rate merlot but even greater cabernet franc in Pomerol and Saint-Emilion, the greatest cabernet sauvignon ever seen in Medoc. For sweet wines there was the sublime noble rot on semillon. There is considerable ageing potential.

 

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This is perhaps the greatest Medoc vintage ever. From the northern part, rich in clay or chalk, to Margaux, the end result is memorable. The late picked merlots in the Begadan area, even if not on a par with 2009, showed their cabernet franc parentage (the merlot is genetically the son of cabernet franc) and were superb in the blend. The especially superb Potensac, in the hands of the brilliant Léoville-Las-Cases team, is up to classified growth level. Saint-Estephe gave very big and potent wines but were better balanced than those from 2009, especially the superb Cos d'Estournel. Calon-Segur was superb, Montrose impressive in its more mineral touch and Lafon-Rochet was well-rounded and excellent value for money. The famous cru bourgeois Haut-Marbuzet, Phélan-Ségur, Meyney and Tronquoy-Lalande deserve their fame. Pauillac, with its deep, clayey and gravelly soil, was sensational in 2009 and 2010 will be as good but different, less velvety in texture and more precise in the finish, with Mouton-Rothschild perhaps the best balanced first growth. Saint-Julien excelled. Barton was slightly less impressive than Poyferré or Las-Cases but racy and complete, Ducru-Beaucaillou was in a first growth quality class and Saint-Pierre was not far behind. Margaux was a triumph, the greatest vintage since 1900 in this area, with all the classified growth up to their best level, with an outstanding, monumental Chateau Margaux. Look out for some smaller scale chateaux such as Clos du Jaugueyron or Les Eyrins - they are jewels for the connoisseur.

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