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Chitose Abe carries off her first handbag collection for Sacai

Japanese designer Abe works with Briton Katie Hillier on bag collection that reworks classic shapes and adds the signature Sacai twist

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Chitose Abe (left) worked with Katie Hillier on the collection.
Divia Harilela

During Sacai’s spring-summer 2017 show in Paris in September, models emerged in various looks inspired by cultural icons, or “game changers”, in the words of designer Chitose Abe, including Jimi Hendrix, Kurt Cobain and Pablo Picasso. There was also another reason why the collection was transformative: it marked the launch of the brand’s first collection of handbags, which lands in stores this December.

Sacai is taking a big leap forward by launching a new category, especially at a time when many brands are consolidating their businesses due to flagging luxury sales. Indeed the debut was long overdue – it’s been 18 years since Abe founded the label, which has become a commercial success thanks to its deconstructed, hybrid-style clothing.

“It isn’t about expanding the business. I always loved the idea of making accessories, but it took time because I wanted to make sure we did it properly. People may think it’s a business decision but it was a natural step for us,” says Abe.

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A Sacai bag designed by Chitose Abe and Katie Hillier.
A Sacai bag designed by Chitose Abe and Katie Hillier.
Rather than design the collection herself, Abe approached British accessories designer and consultant to help bring her vision to life. Hillier, who has her own accessories label, has an impressive CV including stints designing handbags for Victoria Beckham, Loewe and Marc Jacobs.

“We have been designing clothes for almost 20 years, but we’ve never done leather goods so we wanted an expert. I’ve known Katie for a few years through friends and we share many things in common, so it was natural and fun to work together. We met a few times and exchanged e-mails. I would say one word and she would understand exactly what I wanted.”

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A bag from Sacai’s collection.
A bag from Sacai’s collection.
The resulting collection features only six styles, costing from HK$9,800 to HK$21,900 and made using a range of fabrics including hand-woven straw, Italian leather, exotic skins and suede. According to Abe, many of the styles are based on classics that seem familiar at first glance, but that are made fresh again thanks to clever details and new silhouettes.
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