This dog breed’s name means ‘monster’ and it was thought to represent the god of the underworld; now it’s the Xolo’s loyalty that’s prized

Mezcal is not your ordinary pet. Hundreds of years ago, the Nahuas, a Latin-American indigenous group, believed that a hairless dog like him, a Xoloitzcuintle, was a sacred creature who could guide its deceased master through the underworld. Dozens gathered on a recent day at Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, an art and culture museum in Mexico City, for a meet-and-greet with Mezcal and three more “Xolos”, as these slender dogs are locally known. The canines were at the museum as part of an effort to raise awareness about the responsible adoption of Xolo puppies and promote the significance of the breed. “Can I touch him?” asked a woman working security for the museum, as she nervously brought her hand closer to the dog’s head. “Absolutely! He loves to be petted,” said Mezcal’s owner, Nemiliz Gutierrez, who leads a project with her sister, Itzayani, that promotes the breed to the public. By reviewing ancient codex and records written after the Spanish conquest of Mexico in 1521, experts have determined the religious relevance of the dogs among Mesoamerican civilisations. That fact isn’t lost on the sisters. “We are privileged because we have among us some precious jewels of history that are living cultural heritage,” said Itzayani, who owns a playful Xolo named Pilon. Experts found that the Nahuas believed these dogs represented the god, Xolotl, the twin brother of the deity Quetzalcoatl. While the latter personified life and light, the former was an effigy of the underworld and death. The Xolo, thought to be a creature capable of moving through the darkness, was conceived as a guide for their owner’s soul after dying, wrote historian Mercedes de la Garza in an article published by the National Autonomous University of Mexico. Xolos are loyal by nature. If one is adopted by a family, it will choose a member to stick with Nemiliz Gutierrez Burial sites found by archaeologists in central Mexico show the remains of men and dogs lying side by side, which suggests that Xolos may have been sacrificed during their masters’ funeral rites. It was thought to be a way the living could ensure that when the soul of their loved ones reached the river of the underworld, it could reunite with its dog, mount on his back and cross together. In the Nahuatl language, “Xolo” means “monster”, and though some dislike the physical appearance of these dogs, many find them fascinating. Mezcal’s hairless skin is dark as a shadow. When touched, it feels soft and warm. His teeth are rarely visible, as Xolos don’t bark much. On the recent day, he posed for pictures like a movie star and leaned his head towards visitors wanting to pet him. Like his predecessors, Mezcal never loses sight of Nemiliz Gutierrez, who constantly pats her loving dog. “Xolos are loyal by nature,” Nemiliz Gutierrez said. “If one is adopted by a family, it will choose a member to stick with.” ‘At first it was weird’: pet taxidermist busts a taboo and finds acceptance The closeness between Xoloitzcuintles and their owners was also noted by the Nahuas, according to experts. To please the gods, some Xolos were sacrificed to spare their masters’ lives. The dogs were killed in those ceremonies by extracting their hearts. This fact distinguished them from any other animal offered in sacrifice, de la Garza wrote. The dogs are also a part of modern-day culture in Mexico and beyond. At least a couple of Xoloitzcuintles can be seen in Frida Kahlo’s paintings. A few more appear in portraits where the artist posed with her husband, Mexican muralist Diego Rivera. Their love for these pets was shared by friend and art collector Dolores Olmedo, whose home in Mexico City became a museum and who until recently took care of a few Xolos that visitors could approach. In 2016, the capital’s mayor gave the Xoloitzcuintle a cultural heritage designation, and a year later, a charming Xolo named Dante reached world fame after his appearance in the animated film Coco, which portrayed the adventures of a Mexican boy through the underworld. Back in San Ildefonso, the Gutierrez sisters hope more people will come to appreciate the breed’s significance and help it thrive. Once thought by experts to be headed towards extinction, Xolos can be spotted in upper-class Mexico City neighbourhoods. Nemiliz Gutierrez adopted Mezcal, but said some breeders sell the dogs for upwards of US$3,500. Not every Xolo is in demand, though, especially the variety with fur. “Almost nobody wants them,” said Nemiliz Gutierrez, who works with her sister to find caring homes for all Xolos regardless of their coats. Through that process, they enjoy sharing about the breed’s historic significance – when Xolos embodied an endless love believed to transcend death.