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How a global traveller came home to reconnect with China of his youth and preserve fading traditions

  • Photojournalist and art collector Keren Su never forgot the ‘living museum’ he encountered on a 6,800km bike ride across China nearly 40 years ago
  • He built three lodges, the first a traditional wooden structure with no nails, that are cultural museums, art galleries and rustic rural stays rolled into one

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Li-An Lodge and rice terraces, Longsheng, Guangxi, China. Photo: courtesy Keren Su

Standing amid the misty hills and highland rice terraces of Longsheng in southwest China in 1997, Keren Su had a vision.

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“I dreamt about building a house just like the traditional houses in surrounding villages, which are built the ancient Chinese way: entirely wooden and not a single nail. It took me nine years to fulfil that dream.”

At the time, Su was photographing the so-called Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces, some 100 kilometres (62 miles) north of Guilin. He found some land for sale and his vision took flight.

Rice terraces in Longsheng, Guangxi. Photo: Alamy
Rice terraces in Longsheng, Guangxi. Photo: Alamy

“I am an art collector. During the Cultural Revolution they destroyed so much art, especially folk art, so I built up a personal collection including antique furniture, wood carving, porcelain and embroidery pieces.”

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“I thought it would be a wonderful idea to display all the objects and make a special place where I could retire and move all my collection. But then the idea grew to turn that into a small, special lodge to share with people like myself, who love travel to remote, fantastic landscapes.”

My urge has always been to travel, to record change – and the things which are disappearing
Keren Su
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