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China’s premium wine industry fermenting a ‘buzz and energy’, and it’s ‘only going up’

  • Chinese premium wineries are edging into the domestic market despite a limited presence at Vinexpo Asia in Hong Kong last week
  • Premium wine sector in China has spawned several hundred operators over the past decade, with vineyard coverage the third largest in the world by area

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Yu Zhiyong (right) and his brother Yu Zhichao at their booth at the Vinexpo Asia event in Hong Kong. Photo: Mia Nulimaimaiti

The two brothers who run Qingdao Lilong Winery of China quietly served samples of their bubbly Sancaro brand to a trickle of people in a corner of the vast Vinexpo Asia in Hong Kong last week, tucked behind festive and crowded displays from Australia, France and California.

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Overall, just 10 of the 1,030 producers and distillers who exhibited over the three days at the end of May came from mainland China.

But Lilong has built a following in China for its sparkling wines since 2012, hitting a peak in 2020 with 30 million bottles sold.

“We’re not so interested in surpassing imports – not thinking that way,” Lilong representative Yu Zhiyong said.

“I think premium wine can represent a region’s local resources. We have created our own consumer base by promoting the wine itself.”

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The winery sits on 53,300 square metres (573,716 sq ft) of land, and obtains its grapes from a vineyard north of the coastal city Qingdao.

I’ve had quite a few of them [to drink] that are at international standards
Ian Ford, Nimbility
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