ExclusiveXinjiang cotton ban, forced labour claims push China to step up plans for domestic Better Cotton Initiative

Name: Xinjiang, China’s top cotton producer
Uploaded: 2021-04-14T16:00:15.000Z
Duration: 1 min 8 s
Description: Xinjiang, China’s top cotton producer

Switzerland-based Better Cotton Initiative, launched to promote good practice in cotton industry, has been pressured over its handling of forced labour claims in Xinjiang

Plans for the Weilai Cotton, or future cotton, project were made two years ago but were accelerated in January when the Better Cotton Initiative cut off ties with Xinjiang

3-MIN READ3-MIN

According to its website, the Better Cotton Initiative has 2,096 members around the world, including retailers, brands, suppliers and manufacturers, with 491 in China. Photo: SCMPOST

Cissy Zhou

Published: 12:00am, 15 Apr 2021Updated: 9:27pm, 4 Jun 2021

China has stepped up plans to launch its own version of the under-fire Better Cotton Initiative after the network cut off all ties with Xinjiang due to concerns about the alleged forced labour issue in the region, according to three people familiar with the matter.

Beijing-based cotton vertical service provider Zhongnong Guoji started the Weilai Cotton, or future cotton, project two years ago, but it did not make much progress until January when two state-backed organisations – the China Fashion Association and the Modern Seeds Development Fund – became involved, according to Zhao Yan, one of the coordinators for the project.

The Switzerland-based Better Cotton Initiative was launched in 2009 to promote good practice in the cotton industry, but has been under pressure recently over its handling of the alleged forced labour issue in Xinjiang.

We have been living with Switzerland’s standards for years, but the country doesn’t even produce cotton. Now it is time to form our own national standards

Zhao Yan, Weilai Cotton project coordinator

“We have been living with Switzerland’s standards for years, but the country doesn’t even produce cotton. Now it is time to form our own national standards,” said Zhao.

Zhao, who will be the chief brand officer for the project, confirmed that the recent international hostility towards Xinjiang cotton had accelerated the project that is expected to demonstrate a “national aspiration” at this “crucial moment”.

The group may also establish a separate company called Weilai Cotton to run the day-to-day affairs and organise various events in the industry, added Zhao, with various preparations still ongoing before the project itself can be launched.

In March last year, the Better Cotton Initiative suspended licensing and assurance activities in Xinjiang due to “persistent allegations” of forced labour.

01:08

Xinjiang, China’s top cotton producer