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Illustration by Perry Tse

China’s Covid lockdowns snuff out ‘on-a-whim’ travel, leaving domestic tourism in tatters

  • The Mid-Autumn Festival brought more bad news for the travel sector, and the coming Golden Week period will not help either, experts say
  • With Beijing enforcing zero-Covid policy zealously in the run-up to October’s 20th Party Congress, travel companies and would-be travellers see no relief in sight

Angela Lee may stay home in Shenzhen when China’s weeklong National Day holiday comes around in October, just as she did during last week’s Mid-Autumn Festival, because the country’s draconian zero-Covid controls have put her off travelling.

Her last trip – an August visit with her boyfriend to Hainan, an idyllic island with the reputation as China’s Hawaii – ended in a mad dash for the airport, only to be plucked from the departure gate straight into quarantine at a government-assigned hotel, after local authorities locked down several cities across the island province amid a resurgent Covid-19 outbreak.

“The days of travelling on a whim are long gone,” said Lee in an interview from Shenzhen. The couple’s forced quarantine was free, but it was an “emotional roller coaster ride” they would rather not repeat, she said.

Lee, one of the 80,000 tourists who found themselves stuck last month in Hainan’s Sanya resort city, is the human face of a tourism industry that is lying in tatters. The city is favoured by Russian tourists, especially during the northern hemisphere’s winter months, so much so that street signs often feature the Cyrillic script.
Angela Lee and her boyfriend on a transit bus after completing their mandatory hotel quarantine in Hainan, on August 14, 2022. Photo: Angela Lee

Tourism receipts shrank 22.8 per cent from a year ago to 28.7 billion yuan (US$4.1 billion) during last week’s Mid-Autumn Festival, traditionally a period for travelling and family gatherings, according to data from China’s Ministry of Culture and Tourism. The plunge prompted Premier Li Keqiang to call for policies to drive up domestic consumption to keep the economy growing.

Li has reason for concern. Tourism contributed 11 per cent of China’s economic activity before the pandemic broke out in 2019, but is now powerless to sustain a sputtering economy that is expanding at its slowest annual pace since records began in 1992. An estimated 65 million people across 33 cities – including Hainan, Tibet and in Xinjiang – are in some form of lockdown, according to a September 4 report by Caixin.

The number of Chinese tourists who took to the roads or skies during the Mid-Autumn Festival, from September 10 to 12, fell 16.7 per cent from last year to 73.4 million trips. Very few foreigners have been allowed to visit China, except diplomats and those with urgent matters subject to the most stringent scrutiny, let alone tourists.

Street signs in Hainan’s Sanya resort city, a favored destination for Russian tourists, feature Cyrillic script, in addition to English and Chinese. Photo: Shutterstock

The festival fell far short of delivering the “best recovery for short holidays this year”, which Trip.com Group had predicted. The dominant online travel company’s shares have lost around 28 per cent of their value on Nasdaq since Covid-19 was first reported three years ago.

Signs were everywhere that this year’s Mid-Autumn travel period would fizzle out, as China’s looming Communist Party congress – scheduled to start on October 16 – put local authorities on hyperalert to snuff out any sign of outbreak.

Shanghai delayed the annual Lujiazui Financial Forum, pulling the rug from under the most important date on the city’s financial calendar the day before it was due to begin after finding a single, asymptomatic infection out of a population of 25 million residents.
Not to be outdone, Chengdu and Shenzhen barred their combined population of 33 million people from leaving their city limits. Ili, also known as Yili, has been under lockdown since early August, confining 4.5 million residents and barring visitors to the city in northern Xinjiang.

With the National Day holiday – dubbed the Golden Week – around the corner, many Chinese consumers are pondering whether they should risk travelling.

The government says no. The State Council instructed citizens to “stay in place” until the end of October in a notice on September 8. Overseas travel for non-essential purposes has been discouraged since May, when the government stopped issuing exit permits and travel documents.

Yet China’s travel and tourism sector needs people to start moving.

Three of the country’s largest airlines – Air China, China Southern Airlines and China Eastern Airlines – recently reported their largest quarterly losses since the pandemic started. Trip.com Group reported that its 2021 revenue reached only 56 per cent of 2019’s level, at 20 billion yuan.

In 2021, the volume and value of domestic travel dropped to around 3 billion and 2.92 trillion yuan, respectively – similar to 2013 levels and around half of 2019’s total. Meanwhile outbound trips have “fallen off a cliff … to a near halt” since 2020, according to the China Tourism Academy.

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80,000 tourists trapped in ‘China’s Hawaii’ in latest Covid-19 outbreak

80,000 tourists trapped in ‘China’s Hawaii’ in latest Covid-19 outbreak
China’s travel agencies made no profits in 2021, losing 300 million yuan from domestic, outbound and inbound trips combined, the Ministry of Culture and Tourism said in a May report.
The recent lockdowns in Sanya and various other cities in Hainan province prove that no destination is immune. Once a favourite holiday spot for Russian visitors in pre-Covid days, the destination became a bright spot for domestic travel and duty-free shopping during the pandemic. Its popularity since 2020 drove the meteoric rise of state-owned China Tourism Group Duty Free, which in August had its initial public offering on the Hong Kong exchange.

For now, stakeholders in travel and tourism see little light at the end of the tunnel.

“It is still early to tell when the [travel and tourism] sector will fully recover,” Wang Cheng, a Morningstar equity analyst, told the Post. “We do not believe the zero-COVID-19 policy will be abandoned this year.”

“We basically gave up on Mid-Autumn because many cities have elevated their Covid control measures,” said Song Huan, the founder of Hangzhou-based boutique agency Mava Trip. He does not expect Golden Week, October 1 through 7c, to be any better given the government’s determination to stamp out outbreaks.

Travellers enjoy a horseback ride during a trip to Inner Mongolia on August 1, 2021. Photo: Mava Trip

Chinese consumers have found ways to take breathers despite restrictions, but have reduced their travel radius. As the border remains shut, they travel domestically. When going to a large metropolis or a popular destination would entail elevated risk, they go outdoors in nearby regions.

Xie Sijie, a 55-year-old industrial inspector in eastern city of Ningbo, went camping with his family within his home province of Zhejiang for the mid-autumn holiday, and plans to go to the seaside in a nearby city for the Golden Week.

“We used to go to places that are over 1,000 kilometres away, such as Shandong, Fujian and Tibet,” he said. “But we have to consider Covid policies to avoid unnecessary trouble with recent travels.”

Since 2020, he and his wife have slashed their travel budget – previously 15,000 to 20,000 yuan per year – by two thirds.

Song believes the industry will start recovering after the government concludes its October conclave. “It could gradually happen during the winter holiday after the 20th Party Congress,” he said. “And things could really pick up next summer.”

“In regard to international travel, we have been witnessing positive signs in the past weeks with the shortening of the quarantine on arrival in China,” said Joanne Tang, the founder and CEO of Infinite Luxury Group, a travel agency catering to Chinese high-net-worth-individuals. She cited Beijing cutting quarantine days for international travellers from 14 to seven days in June. “We are getting closer and closer to this happening,” Tang said.

One can perhaps see a glimmer of hope in Hong Kong, where analysts say a tourism recovery may arrive sooner than in mainland China. The special administrative region has reduced hotel quarantine to three days, and China Travel International Investment Hong Kong sees growth from the city, Chairman Jiang Hong said during an earnings call on August 31.

Mainland China’s prospects still hinge on Beijing’s zero-Covid policy.

For now travellers are dealing with uncertainty by booking closer to the departure date, said experts including Trip.com and Tang. Xie Xiaoqing, a senior researcher at Trip.com Institute, said cancellations remain high.
For example, Joe Zhou had to pull the plug on a nine-day mid-autumn holiday in Yunnan province when his city of residence, Shenzhen, went into lockdown.

“I try not to be affected [by the Covid policy] but it’s like throwing eggs at rocks,” he said on September 6 from his home confinement.

Beijing-based Sissi Gao was looking forward to a mid-autumn climbing trip in Aba Prefecture in the northwestern province of Sichuan. Days before departure, a lockdown in Chengdu scuttled the journey, for which she had already set aside around 20,000 yuan to cover professional guides, gear and other expenses.

While these disappointed travellers can save their money for future trips, the situation represents unending bad news for the businesses that have endured losses over the last two years. Morningstar’s Wang predicted early this month that the heavy losses of China’s biggest airlines are set to continue through the second half of the year.

Meanwhile large players in tourism continue to see a gap in recovery between their domestic and overseas businesses.

In the latest earnings season, Hong Kong-listed hospitality giant H World Group’s overseas revenue tripled in the second quarter to 921 million yuan, whereas its domestic revenue fell by 26.8 per cent to 2.4 billion yuan. Similarly, French travel and tourism operator Club Med, which is owned by Hong Kong-listed Fosun Tourism Group, reported a 22 per cent jump in revenue in the Americas in the first half of 2022, while revenue from mainland China plunged 44 per cent.

Mainland residents that the Post spoke to dare not dream about going abroad.

Instead, they delay yearned-for trips for years and, in some cases, end up missing once-in-a-lifetime events. If not for Covid-19, Ningbo resident Xie would have travelled to the US for his daughter’s postgraduate ceremony in Boston in 2021. Now he plans a US trip after retiring in a few years.

Lee is currently avoiding travel altogether after her weeklong quarantine in Hainan.

“Going through every stop from Hainan to Shenzhen has been emotionally draining,” she said. “Plus, my boss wouldn’t forgive me if it happened to me again.”

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