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Laughing stock

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Susan Jung

Many French children's love of cheese begins with La Vache Qui Rit - The Laughing Cow. In its most familiar form, the cheese comes in small, foil-wrapped wedges that fit snugly in a round, flat box with a cartoon drawing of a red laughing cow on the front.

La Vache Qui Rit is really a 'cheese product' rather than pure cheese - it's made of a blend of cheeses mixed with milk, whey and cream, and the ingredients are pasteurised, for a longer shelf life. It's not the most sophisticated product: the English website stresses the calorie count, creaminess and spreadability as much as the taste while the French site has a special area aimed at children. In addition to the original product, La Vache Qui Rit comes in 'light' and flavoured versions.

If you can ignore the flavoured Laughing Cows and treat the original as cream cheese, some of the recipes on the website don't sound that hideous. I imagine it would add a good, creamy texture to scrambled eggs, soups and pasta dishes, although I wouldn't use it (as is suggested) as a substitute for mozzarella in a caprese salad, or mix it with 'light' mayonnaise to make a Caesar salad.

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