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SCMP Reporter

7 days guide to Hong Kong

WITH HOT AND HUMID DAYS now being replaced by cooler, drier ones, this is the best time of year to tour Hong Kong on foot.

From the pinnacle of Victoria Peak to the quaint shops of Central, the antique clock tower in Tsim Sha Tsui to the bustling shopping streets in Mongkok, and the Big Buddha on Lantau Island, popular sights in Hong Kong can be covered in just a few days.

Where to begin? A suggested day-by-day itinerary is presented here. Set your own pace by taking or leaving out any of the suggestions, and mix and match them with the gastronomic options suggested in the    dining section of this magazine (page 24). Happy exploring.

Day 1 (AM)

VICTORIA PEAK VIA PEAK TRAM

TAKING THE PEAK TRAM to The Peak is an adventure in itself. The funicular railway dating  back to 1888 thrills with its steep incline (the steepest is at 27 degrees). Originally operated by coal-fired steam boilers, the tram became electrically powered in 1926. It now makes more than 90 trips a day between 7am and midnight. Each trip lasts just seven minutes. (Adult fare: $20 for single journey and $30 for return journey)

The Peak Tram takes visitors to the Peak Tower and Peak Galleria, which offer panoramic views of Victoria Harbour and the Kowloon Peninsula. They are also packed with shops, dining and entertainment outlets. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours here to cover all the thrilling options. Try the hi-tech virtual-reality ride the Peak Explorer Motion Simulator, inspect a showcase of weird and wonderful artefacts at the Ripley's Believe It Or Not! Odditorium, and get up close and personal with more than 100 wax figures of celebrities at Hong Kong?s Madame Tussauds wax exhibition.

How to get there

1. From Central MTR exit K, walk towards the harbour and the Star Ferry pier, take bus 15C ($3.20; runs daily: 10am ? 11.45pm) to Garden Road ( Lower Peak Tram Terminus).

2. From Admiralty MTR Bus Terminus, take Citybus 12S ($2.50; runs daily: 10am to noon) to Garden Road (Lower Peak Tram Terminus).

3. Take a taxi to the Lower Peak Tram Station from Star Ferry, Admiralty or Central MTR stations.

4. Walk to Garden Road (Lower Peak Tram Terminus) from Central MTR station exit J2 (10 minutes) or from Admiralty MTR station exit C2 (10-15 minutes).

Day 1 (PM)

PEAK WALKS

WALK OFF that high-calorie lunch with a walk around or down The Peak while taking in more breathtaking views from on high.

Turn right out of the Peak Tower and head for Lugard Road to embark on a circular walk that takes about one hour. Alternatively, turn into Hatton Road at the Harlech Road junction and head downhill. The road leads to Pinewood Battery which offers great views of the western Victoria Harbour. Continue down Hatton Road and follow the Kotewall Road sign to University Drive which leads to the University of Hong Kong, the oldest university in the city.

From here, take bus 13 to Central, and continue along Conduit Road for about 30 minutes to the Mid-Levels escalator and walk down to Central.

CENTRAL AND SHEUNG WAN

WESTERN, Sheung Wan and parts of Central are in a time warp. Antiques, Chinese medicine and dried seafood shophouses line the lanes in this district, where one can still catch a glimpse of the old Hong Kong juxtaposed with the chrome and steel hives of the  commercial world.

Take a tram or MTR to Sheung Wan and explore the Western Market, an Edwardian-style historic building built in 1906 and renovated to house fabric shops, stalls and interesting restaurants.

Then head away from the shore into Morrison Street and turn right into Wing Lok Street to explore the numerous shops selling the ginseng and bird?s nest that give it the nickname 'Ginseng and Bird's Nest Street'. Neighbouring Des Voeux Road West and Ko Shing Street are home to exotic dried seafood and herbal medicine shops.

Alternatively, head straight for the antique shops in Hollywood Road after the Western Market via Morrison Road, Queen?s Road Central and Possession Street. The road, named after the holly shrubs that lined it after it was built in 1844 by the British Army, has a high concentration of curio and antique shops selling big or small items. Don?t miss Upper Lascar Row, also known as ?Cat Street?, which is lined with antique shops and an open-air flea market.

Hollywood Road leads to the Mid-Levels escalator, which runs downhill only from 6am to 10am for residents of Mid-Levels heading to work in Central, and then uphill from 10.20am to midnight. Heavy pedestrian traffic along the escalator has resulted in funky shops and eateries opening up in the area, most notably in SoHo, so named for its location ? south of Hollywood Road ? where trendy bars, cafes and restaurants abound.

Several streets branching off  the escalator are worth exploring: Gage Street for its  local delicacies, Lyndhurst Terrace for its ancient maps and prints along with beauty salons and spas, and Stanley Street for photographic equipment.

From Stanley Street, head back down to the Central MTR station via Pottinger Street, with its stone-slab steps and stalls selling ribbons, bows and buttons. Visit Li Yuen Streets East and West for bargain casual wear and accessories.

How to get there

1. Return to Central via the Peak Tram or bus 15, take a tram towards Sheung Wan/Kennedy Town and begin your exploration at the Western Market next to the Sheung Wan MTR station.

2. If you have walked down to Central from The Peak, begin from the Mid-Levels escalator.

Day 2 (AM)

OCEAN PARK

COVERING ALMOST 70 hectares, Ocean Park offers not only the usual displays found in oceanariums around the world, it also plays host to two giant pandas and offers many thrilling rides for children and adults.

Go behind the scenes and take part in Ocean Park?s Ed-Venture tours. The Animal Ed-Venture (11am-12.30pm) includes an encounter with baby dolphins, a chance to feed the panda bears, and a visit with bird trainers to learn how they build their close bond.

The Marine Land Ed-Venture (1pm-2.30pm) offers insight into the differences between sea lions and seals and into how sharks are looked after in captivity. It also gives visitors front-row seats to watch the daily fish-feeding routine.

A 90-minute swim with the dolphins in the park is also possible with the Dolphin Encounter Programme, for visitors aged eight and above. (inquiries: www.oceanpark.com.hk)

How to get there

1. Citybus route 629 from Admiralty MTR station exit B or Central Star Ferry pier, or route 630 from Kowloon KCR Hunghom station.

2. Take any bus that goes through the Aberdeen Tunnel to the south side of Hong Kong Island and disembark at the first bus stop after going through the tunnel (bus 72, 72A, 92, 96 or 592 from Causeway Bay; bus 6A, 6X, 29R, 70, 75, 90, 97, 260, M590 or 262 from Central; bus 41A, 38 or 42 from North Point, bus 77 or 99 from Shau Kei Wan; and 171, 671, 107, 973 or 170 from Kowloon side).

Day 2 (PM)

STANLEY MARKET

A LATE AFTERNOON stroll along the waterfront at Stanley brings out the romantic in all of us. Catch a bus and take front-row seats upstairs for a spectacularly scenic (if hair-raising) ride. Pick up some bargains before the stalls close at 6.30pm, then stroll along the promenade towards the dazzling light show at local landmark Murray House. The illumination of this historic building has won an international award. Its state-of-the-art, colour-changing, fibre-optic system has been hailed for both its technical achievement and aesthetic brilliance. Let the sea breeze whet your appetite and dine al fresco along the waterfront before heading back to town.

How to get there

From the main entrance of Ocean Park, proceed to the bus stop on the main road near the Hong Kong School of Motoring and take bus 6A, 6X, 260 or 973 to Stanley.

Day 3 (AM)

TSIM SHA TSUI

A MUST FOR all visitors, Tsim Sha Tsui offers a vibrant mix of landmarks, museums, shopping and dining. Start the tour at the old Clock Tower near the Star Ferry concourse. This landmark is a legacy of the days when a train station once stood where the Hong Kong Cultural Centre is today. Explore the Hong Kong Museum of Art and the Hong Kong Space Museum nearby. Just across the road is The Peninsula, the grand dame of Hong Kong?s hotels, which serves quintessential English high tea.

Criss-cross the streets to check out the latest haute couture or luxury goods from top international brands or hunt for back-street bargains, but do beware of offers of dubious merchandise on the street.

Head to Tsim Sha Tsui east, where the Hong Kong Museum of History can be found next to the Hong Kong Science Museum,  or shop till you drop in the clusters of malls to be found in this ?golden triangle?.

One of the newest attractions in this area is the Avenue of Stars, where Hong Kong?s celebrities leave their handprints.

Return to the promenade at night to watch the ?Symphony of Lights?, a nightly scene of Victoria Harbour illuminated by laser and special effects lighting at 8pm.

Day 3 (PM)

SHAMSHUIPO-MONGKOK

DECAMP FROM Tsim Sha Tsui to another bustling shopping hub, Mongkok.

Start the journey at Cheung Sha Wan Road or ?Fashion Street? (Shamshuipo MTR station exit C1/D1) to bargain hunt in the wholesale outlets. Then head to Apliu Street street market (Shamshuipo MTR station exit A2/C2) and plough through the shops and stalls for the latest technology gadgets, sewing materials and trinkets, antique clocks and other collectibles.

Head towards Prince Edward MTR station and take a breather with the flowers and delightful bird songs at the Flower Market and Yuen Po Street Bird Garden, or walk around the aquariums at the Goldfish Market (Prince Edward MTR station exit B1).

From there, head towards Fa Yuen Street and launch into more bargain hunting for trendy casual clothes. Move on to Tung Choi Street, nicknamed the Ladies? Market (Mongkok MTR station exit E2), for a one-of-a-kind shopping extravaganza. Stalls selling cheap        men?s and women?s clothing, knick-knacks, watches and beauty products are open until 11.30pm.

Move along to Yau Ma Tei and get a blast from the past in Shanghai Street (Yau Ma Tei MTR station exit A1), where shops still sell opulently embroidered Chinese wedding gowns. Turn right at Kansu Street to visit the Jade Market, but think twice before buying high-value items unless you have a keen eye for the semiprecious stone.

Wind up your day at the Temple Street Night Market (Yau Ma Tei MTR station exit B2) ? with its  street-side food stalls,  bargain clothing fortune-tellers and chess players.

An easier option is to take the Open-Top Bus Night Tour that stops at Temple Street and the Ladies? Markets. (inquiries: 2723 1808/ 2368 7111; www.grayline.com.hk)

How to get there

The MTR to Shamshuipo

and Prince Edward.

Day 4

LANTAU ISLAND

LANTAU, Hong Kong?s biggest out-

lying island, is home not only to the Hong Kong International Airport but to the Big Buddha and Po Lin Monastery. The new Disneyland opening next year is also located here.

The impressive Big Buddha sits on a lotus throne above a three-platform altar at the Po Lin Monastery. The 26-metre bronze statue is located high on the 520-metre Ngong Ping plateau. The temple is open daily from 9am to 6pm. (From Mui Wo ferry, take bus 2 to Ngong Ping, or from Tung Chung MTR station exit B, take bus 23)

Up for a hike? Follow the signs for Lantau Peak to a trail of natural woodland and bird habitats. Stop at the Po Lam Monastery at Tei Tong Tsai for a panoramic view of the airport before proceeding for a 40-minute walk towards the Lo Hon Temple, which was built by lay Buddhists in 1974.

Another 30 minutes on the trail and the 19th-century Tung Chung Fort and six old Qing Dynasty cannons come into sight. Wind up the trip by following the bus route back to Tung Chung town centre, where you can enjoy refreshments.

An easier alternative is to hop on a Lantau Explorer Bus for a five-hour journey covering Cheung Sha, the Big Buddha and Tai O fishing village. (inquiries: 2984 8255, lantours@netvigator.com)

How to get there

Catch the ferry from Central Outlying Island Ferry

Pier No 7 to Mui Wo.

Day 5 (AM)

WAN CHAI AND CAUSEWAY BAY

THE GOLDEN BAUHINIA statue in front of the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre on the Wan Chai waterfront makes a popular backdrop for souvenir photographs. Walk through the exhibition venue and you may catch an interesting event to partake in. Make a stop at the TDC Design Gallery in the HKCEC to explore the talents of Hong Kong designers  through a wide array of products displayed for sale.

Day 5 (PM)

CAUSEWAY BAY AND HORSE RACING IN HAPPY VALLEY

Your Hong Kong shopping experience is not complete without paying homage to Causeway Bay. So take a few hours to weave through the major department stores, including Sogo, Mitsukoshi and Lane Crawford. Top brand names can be found in two key shopping malls ? Lee Gardens and Times Square, but don?t miss the smaller malls and side streets as you may find bargains as good as those in the Stanley market. Visit Jardine?s Bazaar for great deals, Paterson Street for trendy shops, and Lockhart Road for chic streetwear.

Plan an evening at the Happy Valley Racecourse for adrenalin pumping horse- racing excitement. Evening races are held at the Happy Valley course on Wednesdays during the race season from September to June. (Take a tram to Happy Valley, or walk to Wong Nai Chung Road from Times Square at Causeway Bay MTR station exit A)

Visitors can buy a tourist badge for entry into the Members? Enclosure at the race course. Alternatively, join the ?Come Horseracing Tour? or gather a party of 12 for the ?Racing in Style? package, which includes an international buffet and open bar at the club?s restaurant. A dining package for $460, inclusive of admission to the Members? Enclosure, is also available. The dress code is smart, so wear a jacket and tie. (inquiries: 2368 7111, sales@grayline.com.hk; racing calendar: www.hkjc.com/english/racing/fixture.asp)

How to get there

MTR to Causeway Bay station.

Day 6

NEW TERRITORIES

PARTS OF the suburban and more rural New Territories have preserved traditions and heritage that are unique to Hong Kong.

Make a wish by tossing red and gold incense paper or other offerings at the ancient and world-famous banyan Wishing Tree just west of Tai Po in Lam Tsuen (from Tai Po Market KCR station, look for a minibus to Lam Tsuen). Visit the Man Mo Temple in Fu Shin Street, a shrine for the Taoist God of Literature (Man) and the God of War (Mo), built in classic style, with a centralised walled compound and eight chambers surrounding an open courtyard. The temple was declared a monument in 1984 (Take a taxi from Tai Po Market KCR station).

The Hong Kong Heritage Museum has 12 exhibition galleries showcasing relics and the history of the arts and culture of early Hong Kong, including a collection of Chinese paintings by acclaimed artist Zhao Shao'ang and an exhibition on the development of Cantonese opera.

(Walk from Sha Tin or Tai Wai KCR station, or take the free shuttle from the Leisure and Cultural Services Department headquarters at Sha Tin KCR station on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays)

Time your visit to Sha Tin on a Saturday and Sunday during horse-racing season from September to June, and immerse yourself in this exciting sport at the Sha Tin Racecourse.

A cushier option is to take the full-day Land Between Tour which covers the Yuen Yuen Institute, the Tai Mo Shan Lookout, the Tai Po Rural Market, Luk Keng Village, and Sam Mun Tsai fishing village. (inquiries: 2723 1808, www.grayline.com.hk)

Also consider the Heritage Tour covering the Tai Po Man Mo Temple and market, the Wishing Tree in Lam Tsuen, Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall, Lo Wai Walled Village and Tai Fu Tai Mandarin's Mansion, an opulent residence built by a scholar who was bestowed the title of Tai Fu (Mandarin) by an emperor of the Qing dynasty. (inquiries: 2723 1808, www.grayline.com.hk)

Day 7

OUTLYING ISLANDS ESCAPADE

NOT GETTING ENOUGH greenery or fresh air in Hong Kong? Take a ferry from one of the outlying island ferry piers in Central and visit an island at a leisurely pace. Alternatively, try the Outlying Islands Escapade tour, which covers Cheung Chau and Lamma islands in a day. (inquiries: 2815 6034, www.hkkf.com.hk)

The first stop of the five-hour tour is Cheung Chau, famous for its Bun Festival and seafood. Smell the fresh and dried fish stalls lining the narrow streets and lanes of this tiny dumb-bell-shaped island. Stop at the Pak Tai Temple, the site of the Bun Festival, which every year sees a huge procession marching through the tiny alleyways. See where Hong Kong?s windsurfing champion Lee Lai-shan trains at Tung Wan Beach before hopping onto an exclusive charter boat to Lamma Island.

The tour of Lamma includes a leisurely 90-minute walk across the island from Sok Kwu Wan to Yung Shue Wan. Tour members can make use of a flexi-return ticket to linger longer in the village, which has drawn a number of expatriates with its rustic attractions.

How to get there

Tour departs daily at 9.15am at Outlying Island Ferry Pier No 4 in Central.



7 days guide to Hong Kong