Le Marais, which translates as 'the swamp' (until the 13th century it was a marsh that was often flooded by the Seine), overflows these days with artists, designers and other creative types as well as their predictable successors: bohos and tourists.
Sprawling across the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, the history of this once watery quartier is marked by fluctuations in wealth: blue-blooded prosperity in the 17th century, as evidenced by the grand mansions, now restored and converted into museums, followed by a long period of neglect when it was populated by squatters.
When the artists moved in late last century, seeking sanctuary from tourist-trampled St Germain des Pres, fortunes started shifting anew, for their short-lived haven soon gave way to gentrification and commerce, making the Marais fashionable and expensive again. Property prices there are now among the city's most exorbitant, a clutch of charming parks and squares, such as the stunning Place des Vosges, no doubt lending extra cachet.
Unique shops and galleries are concealed among the warren of narrow streets, but the best shopping remains on bustling rue des Francs Bourgeois and rue des Rosiers, where most of the shops are open on Sundays. The vast, moodily lit L'Eclaireur (3 ter rue des Rosiers, tel: 33 1 4887 1022) showcases the latest creations by the likes of Ann Demeulemeester, Comme des Garcons, Dries Van Noten and Junya Watanabe, as well as several lesser-known names in cool haute couture. The men's shop, located around the corner at 12 rue Malher (tel: 33 1 4454 2211), also carries the entire line of scented candles and fragrances by Diptyque. Both shops are worth a look not just for their eclectic apparel and accessories, but for their impressive interiors.
For simple and stylish shirts, Rayure (8 rue des Francs Bourgeois, tel: 33 1 4478 0058) offers an elegant selection in black and white for women. Colours may be stark, but the drama is in the tailoring: modern fabrics are cut to flatter and feminise, with unusual details such as geometric collars, musketeer cuffs, zips and laces. Down the road, Metal Pointus (19 rue des Francs Bourgeois, tel: 33 1 4029 4434) specialises in chunky metal jewellery guaranteed to make a statement. Cut from bronze or silver, a piece from this collection of necklaces, rings and bangles could transform the plainest outfit into the boldest costume. For less severe but equally show-stopping accessories, head next door to Satellite (23 rue des Francs Bourgeois, tel: 33 1 4029 4577) where gem and bead-encrusted ornaments twinkle seductively at passers-by.
Flamboyance goes into full bloom further on at Villa Marais (40 rue des Francs Bourgeois, tel: 33 1 4278 4240) where tableware, silk lanterns, hot pink chandeliers, vintage clothing and other blissful bric-a-brac converge. An up-market flea market, the boutique also serves homemade crepes upstairs. Restoring order to the senses is Esteban (above; 20 rue des Francs Bourgeois, tel: 33 1 4027 0416), a temple of olfactory delights stocking an evocative range of home fragrances including Japanese incense, perfumed candles, essential oils and even vacuum-cleaner powder. The products are beautifully designed and packaged and make ideal gifts.