Solo's the way to go for the true flavour of Indonesia

SHEUNG Wan never used to be a gastronomic hotspot in my book but I might have to revise that view soon. To be fair, the area has one of the best Korean restaurants I have come across in Hong Kong, and also some of the better Singaporean/Malaysian food in town.

Unfortunately, when one thinks about dining in Hong Kong, Sheung Wan does not immediately spring to mind - unless one happens to have stepped off the ferry from Macau. Which was actually how we discovered the Solo Indonesian Restaurant, hidden on the first floor of one of those dreary buildings opposite the Macau Ferry Terminal.

The lightbox at the ground floor entrance shows some interesting selections, the most mouthwatering being the ikan pepes, a fish slathered with spices and then grilled in banana leaf. Imagine our delight when the real thing appeared looking exactly like the picture.

Although it was a Friday when we went, the restaurant was practically deserted except for a party of eight and two tables of two: probably not many arrivals from Macau that night. It was, however, perfect for a quiet dinner - though not so good for the restaurant owners.

Solo is much like other Indonesian restaurants one finds throughout Hong Kong. The furniture is unpretentious; mainly basic bamboo articles. It is a relatively big place with more than 15 tables so one imagines they do better business with the office crowds at lunchtime.

At least Solo plays interesting muzak. Heavy slow rock from the Scorpions filtered through the hi-fi system, adding a touch of authenticity to the place, which offered casual but good service. This touch stretched to the food as well. The beef rendang ($65) is the closest to the real thing I have tasted in Hong Kong. The sauce was rich and heavily pungent with spices, especially lemon grass. The beef could have done with more tenderising, but the slightly tough meat did not stop us from relishing it.

Lemon grass also featured strongly in the aromatic ground spice of the ikan pepes. The banana leaf is one of the best secret ingredients to come from the tropics as it really enhances the flavour of the food. Little wonder that the Indians and Southeast Asians use it so often in their cooking. The fish was just your everyday fish - albeit fresh and succulent - but grilled in the banana leaf and spices, it tasted simply delicious.