The dirt tracks leading to the villages of Sai Kung are dotted with relics

IT was over dim sum looking out on to the Sai Kung waterfront where kaido operators were touting for business, that I had the brainwave. Tea and dumplings had not even been part of the original plan. I had intended to take a taxi on arrival in the town, straight on to the country park Visitors' Centre at Pak Tam Chung, about seven kilometres further up the coast.

But I had arrived a lot earlier than expected, thanks to the minibus driver who seemed to think the road from Choi Hung was part of a Grand Prix circuit.

That was it! Go to Pak Tam Chung and take a kaido back to the promenade at Sai Kung by island-hopping, starting at Wong Yi Chau near the Visitors' Centre, then on to Yim Tin Tsai, Kau Sai Chau and then finally Sharp Island (Kiu Tsui Chau), which is a country park in its own right.

The trip could easily have been done in reverse from the pier, but I thought it would be a fine end to a long day bringing the outing to a close there as the sun was setting.

I could select some fresh fish from one of the many vendors on the promenade and have it cooked at a seafood restaurant. There was one seemingly major obstacle: there is no kaido service at any of the islands. But what if . . .

I was right. Kaidos may still be kaidos, but the old-timers who operate them now carry mobile phones - and calling cards. They confirmed that I could call their mobile when I was ready to start the crossing and they would go over to Wong Yi Chau to collect me.

It is a fairly short journey between the islands, but they would give me a total of two hours, so I could quickly look over each. The fee: $300. Cash on delivery.