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Hardy Kam celebrates with his chefs the awarding of a Michelin star to Kam’s Roast Goose restaurant in Wan Chai. Photo: Nora Tam

Michelin star gives Yung Kee scion a goose bump

One branch of the family behind the famous Yung Kee roast goose restaurant yesterday savoured the success of seeing its new restaurant included in the latest Michelin Guide.

Amy Nip

Two years after losing a high-profile court case, one branch of the family behind the famous Yung Kee roast goose restaurant yesterday savoured the success of seeing its new restaurant included in the latest .

A lengthy legal battle between brothers Kinsen Kam Kwan-sing and Ronald Kam Kwan-lai split the family, with the younger Ronald gaining control of the restaurant in Wellington Street, Central.

Kinsen's son Hardy Kam Shun-yuen then opened Kam's Roast Goose in Hennessy Road, Wan Chai, which received one star in the culinary bible, while Yung Kee was overlooked.

"It's a new beginning here," said Hardy. "I no longer think about the court case. I focus on continuing dad's spirit."

The new restaurant is a modern twist on nostalgia - the sauce and selection of geese are done in the traditional way following Kinsen's recipe, but roasted on a gas stove instead of charcoal. Hardy Kam said it was important to preserve the techniques.

"The new generation puts too much emphasis on money and forgets about tradition," he said.

Yung Kee could not be reached for comment.

The awarded between one and three stars to 64 restaurants in Hong Kong - two more than last year.

Five received the highest three-star recognition, 14 received two stars, and 45 one star. Three restaurants moved up from one star to two stars: Cantonese restaurant Yan Toh Heen, modern European restaurant The Principal, and contemporary Cantonese Duddell's.

Young foreign chefs seeking to reinvent dining also gained recognition. Olivier Elzer, who has worked with French chefs Joel Robuchon and Pierre Gagnaire, got one star for his Seasons.

Chef Nurdin Topham, whose restaurant NUR opened this year and won a star, puts strong emphasis on nutrition and environment-friendliness, sourcing 60 per cent of his ingredients from local farms during summer.

He said city diners were very open to new ideas. "It's what's beautiful about Hong Kong."

 

NEW ONE-STARS

1. Akrame
2. Forum
3. Kam’s Roast Goose
4. NUR
5. Seasons
6. Sushi Ginza Iwa
7. Upper Modern Bistro
8. Gainmore Cuisine
9. Kin’s Kitchen
10. Nishiki
11. Yun Yan

SOURCE: MICHELIN GUIDE 2015

 

Harry's view
This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Michelin star gives Yung Kee scion a goose bump
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