Meet the designers pioneering Saudi Arabia’s fashion revolution: Mohammed Ashi just became the first to show at Paris Fashion Week, while Yousef Akbar has returned to Riyadh, signalling changes ahead
Ashi forged his own path, having left the kingdom three decades ago, but his promotion to the top league is neatly timed as Riyadh announces its own fashion week in October and says new freedoms will create retail opportunities worth US$32 billion a year.
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Many worried it was all just a smokescreen to defuse criticism of his human rights record, especially after the gruesome murder of dissident journalist Jamal Khashoggi in the Saudi consulate in Istanbul in 2018.
But the changes ran further and deeper than almost anyone expected.
“For the first two years, I almost didn’t believe it was real, but then I realised, wow, it is real,” said Yousef Akbar, 37, who began his eponymous fashion label in Australia in 2017 and has dressed the likes of Nicole Kidman and Rita Ora.
“I really never thought when I was growing up that this would happen. When I started my brand in Australia, I thought my whole life would be there since I’m a fashion designer,” added Akbar, who now also runs his business from Jeddah.
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The Saudi elite already spent vast sums on international luxury brands for events behind closed doors.
But the Saudi Fashion Commission claims new freedoms around public dress and a growing private sector will see retail sales surge by 48 per cent to US$32 billion between 2021 and 2025.
It wants a lot of this money to stay in the country, creating a Saudi 100 brands programme to incubate local designers.
The Commission’s CEO Burak Çakmak says there are stable foundations for a home-grown industry.
“Just because the country wasn’t exposed to the rest of the world doesn’t mean they are starting now,” he said. “I had an event for a brand this week that’s been running since the 70s.”
While the queer community has heavily influenced the fashion industry around the world, LGBTQ people face severe repression in Saudi Arabia, which criminalises same-sex relations.
“(The authorities) are certainly aware that many couturiers and designers are gay,” said Susanne Koelbl, author of Behind the Kingdom’s Veil.
Their approach is simply to “try to ignore it”, she added, and the authorities are turning a blind eye to almost everything.
“Maybe you can’t dance naked on the table, but almost anything else is possible now, as long as your family is OK with it and you are loyal to the ruler,” Koelbl said.
Having repressed practically all opposition to his rule and stripped clerics of their power, there are few obstacles in Prince Mohammed’s path.
“It’s a well-planned, long-scheduled reform process which is about to change the society completely,” said Koelbl.
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“The Saudi people don’t tend to be revolutionary and for the vast majority there are indeed new and big opportunities now, especially for women.”
The excitement is certainly genuine for those who are benefiting.
“It sounds clichéd, but seeing something happen that we all thought was impossible is very inspiring for my own business,” said Akbar.
- Mohammed Ashi and Yousef Akbar already dress the likes of Cardi B and Nicole Kidman, but now the kingdom’s investment in fashion is gaining traction, with Riyadh hosting its first fashion week in October
- The Saudi Fashion Commission claims new freedoms around public dress and a growing private sector will see retail sales surge to US$32 billion by 2025 – others see a soft power smokescreen