STYLE Edit: Van Cleef & Arpels’ secret watches may look like bracelets or necklaces, but these gorgeous vintage-inspired pieces are more useful – and special – than you think
Concealed within sparkling diamond brooches, snuff boxes and long sautoir necklaces, secret watches were all the rage in the late 19th century. Paired with rich velvet gowns and jewelled slippers, these timepieces were the perfect companions for ladies who believed it was rude to inquire about the time while at a soirée or other social event.
Still favoured for their sense of mystery and ingenious creativity, secret watches have been an integral part of Van Cleef & Arpels’ gleaming legacy since the 1940s. Masquerading as exceptional pieces of jewellery, the maison’s secret watches are mostly designed as transformable creations that can be worn in multiple ways – as clips, bracelets, pendants on a long chain, or of course, simply as wristwatches.
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A tribute to one of the brand’s most iconic bracelet designs from the 1930s, the Ludo Secret watches bring back the signature belt silhouette with a mesh pattern in a collection of five gorgeous timepieces.
To recreate the suppleness of a fabric with a delicate weave, the craftsmen at Van Cleef & Arpels made tiny hexagonal links of gold and adorned them with a precious stone in a star setting at the centre. Each link was then meticulously adjusted by hand for a seamless finish and finally set with a jewel-encrusted motif in place of the buckle on the bracelet.
Available in three different combinations of gold and precious stones, the Ludo watches have a mother-of-pearl-dial surrounded by gems in different sizes that form a rose motif. The dial sits discreetly under a hard stone cabochon in coral, lapis lazuli or chrysoprase. If you want to flaunt just the beautiful mesh bracelet, you have the option of replacing the rose motif with a buckle set with precious stones, or you could get playful with the motif by easily converting it into a clip or a pendant.
Apart from these bright, gem-studded delights in yellow or rose gold, there’s also a pair of unique Mystery Set Ludo watches inspired by the brand’s Hexagone Macarons secret watch from 1941. The highlight of these glamorous timepieces is the “Mystery Set” technique, which involves inserting intricately cut precious stones onto gold rails in a way that the entire surface lends a brilliant sheen to the piece. Just a handful of master jewellers called Mains d’Or specialise in the Mystery Set, a rare craft preserved by Van Cleef & Arpels.
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If you are looking for something really ingenious and unique, the Pompon collection with its eight unique sautoirs will sweep you off your feet. An ode to the twirling tassels on long pearl necklaces from the 1920s, the latest creations in this line include an array of transformable sautoirs adorned with the most exquisite stones from across the globe.
To create tassels on these dazzling necklaces, the artisans thread the pearls onto strands of soft Bruyère silk and then tie a knot between each piece to ensure the pearls do not rub against each other or get lost on breakage. The jewellers also pay a lot of attention to each clasp and clip on the necklace, making sure they merge seamlessly with the jewellery motifs while giving the wearer the freedom to transform the piece as per her needs.
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In the Pompon Margaret long necklace, for instance, the secret watch and tassel can be removed to adjust the length of the necklace as desired. You can also take a strand of pearls and convert it into two bracelets, while the secret watch can be attached to a third bracelet in diamonds, sapphires and cultured pearls.
In the Pompon Leila necklace, the diamond-set watch is hidden among the strands of pearls and coloured stones. This necklace too can be adjusted to varying lengths and the main motif can be taken off to be worn as a clip, adorned with a precious stone in the centre.
Taken together, this precious line of secret watches fire the imagination and showcase Van Cleef & Arpels’ savoir-fare at its best.
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These highly unique timepieces hold a special place in the world of haute horlogerie, not least because they require such incredible skill to make – and to hide