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How wearable is sculptural fashion off the runway? Loewe and Schiaparelli are renowned for their conceptual designs, while Jack Irving, Kay Kwok and Terrence Zhou take a futuristic approach

Futuristic designs may be the future for sculptural fashion. Photos: Handout, @jackirvingstudio/Instagram
From Loewe’s anthurium dresses and audacious “petal” heels and Schiaparelli’s life-size animal heads pinned on garments, to Comme des Garçons challenging norms with a boxy dress resembling washing-up gloves, the dialogue between fashion and sculpture is nothing new.
Kylie Jenner attends the Schiaparelli haute couture spring/summer 2023 collection presented in Paris, on January 23. Photo: AP

Indeed, this dynamic interplay between the two creative arts has been consistently tested within the fashion industry. Designers persistently push the boundaries of their collections, capturing audiences with surreal and one-of-a-kind showcases.

Models present creations from the womenswear ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 collection by Loewe during a presentation at the Paris Fashion Week (PFW), in Paris, in September 2022 – including the brand’s eye-catching anthurium dress. Photo: EPA-EFE
But it does prompt the question: how wearable are these outfits off the runway? Isn’t fashion, in its most conventional and functional form, meant to be worn on the streets too? Style chats to three up-and-coming fashion designers, who are inspired by avant-garde concepts, to find out.

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Futuristic influences

Jack Irving’s designs are out of this world. Photo: @jackirvingstudio/Instagram

Some of today’s emerging young designers look to futuristic influences to create their sculptural works for the runway.

 

In wearable art, Jack Irving says, the “art is wearing you”. Irving, an artist and designer from Blackpool in the UK who now runs his design studio in London, is well known for his work in creating cosmic worlds of his hyperreality.

“For me, it’s finding inspiration in blurring the lines between sculpture and garment, making the human body a subject for art, and playing with the limits of fashion in that way,” he tells us in an exclusive interview.

Paris Hilton wearing a piece by Jack Irving. Photo: @jackirvingstudio/Instagram
Irving’s work creates dialogue to say the least. His fusion of fashion and technology propels his creations into an otherworldly sphere. Among his most renowned works stands the Sea Urchin Showgirl inflatable dress, a masterpiece worn by Lady Gaga herself, who’s a recurring collaborator with the designer. This ethereal ensemble graced the stage during the grand finale of the ArtRave: The Artpop Ball World Tour in Paris.
Jack Irving dressed the Spice Girls too. Photo: @jackirvingstudio/Instagram
Irving’s ingenuity has also clothed illustrious figures including Paris Hilton, Cheryl, Doja Cat and the iconic Spice Girls during their Spiceworld Tour. Most recently, his artistic touch was evident in Netta Barzilai’s Eurovision appearance.

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Jack Irving isn’t afraid to experiment. Photo: @jackirvingstudio/Instagram

Surrounded by theatre from a young age, Irving says the “showy glitz and glam of the stage” always inspired him, and now theatrics play a huge part in his creative process. “It manifests now in a fascination for otherworldly themes and subjects, like the ethereality of the space and the deep sea, and the all encompassing nature of things bigger than us,” he adds.

Kwk by Kay Kwok dressed Beyoncé. Photo: Handout
Meanwhile, Hong Kong’s Kay Kwok made his ultimate breakthrough when he created a showstopping 3D-printed piece for Beyoncé on her Renaissance tour earlier this year. The founder of Kwk by Kay Kwok became the first local fashion brand designer to ever work with the pop star. The futuristic sculptural piece caught the attention of many, featuring a 3D-printed chrome helmet and body piece with arms wrapping around the “Who Run the World (Girls)” singer.
Kay Kwok. Photo: Handout

Kwok explains that his costumes are designed as “storytelling pieces”. “There’s a story behind the nine members of the Kwk avatars we launch one by one every season,” he shares about the work, which was first shown at London Fashion Week in September 2022. “We take inspiration from their background story and express it on the runway.”

Terrence Zhou plays with shapes. Photo: Handout

In the US, New York-based Wuhanese fashion designer Terrence Zhou, who has worked with Kris Jenner and Jennifer Coolidge, also defines fashion as a means of expressing his artistic passion.

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Terrence Zhou. Photo: Handout

His work is big, bulbous, fantastically eccentric and plays with shapes and geometry in its designs. “I don’t overly focus on my personal style; instead, I constantly push myself to perceive things from unique perspectives, utilising clothing as a canvas for my creative manifestation,” he tells us.

Terrence Zhou’s work is eccentric. Photo: Handout

His brand Bad Binch TingTong is often inspired by creatures like octopuses and centipedes, as unveiled in an interview with The New York Times. With a background in mathematics, bioengineering and tech, he tells us he sees himself as an “open vessel”, with his creative process being “non-linear”.

“There are days when I step into my office, and a vivid image immediately pops into my head, compelling me to bring it to life. It’s as if I’m guided by a higher dimension, receiving instructions to create whatever they reveal to me,” he shares. “I simply can’t resist the urge to follow their guidance and bring those ideas into reality.”

Redefining wearability

Lady Gaga wearing a piece by Jack Irving. Photo: @jackirvingstudio/Instagram
Fashion knows no limits and the runway is a place to showcase a designer’s creative expression and artistic freedom. But can they be taken from the runway to real life?
Kwk by Kay Kwok presents his spring/summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week in September 2022. Photo: Chris Yates Media

Kwok says he never puts wearability into consideration in his showpiece designs.

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Beyoncé wearing Kwk by Kay Kwok. Photo: Handout

“It is more about the storytelling of the season, more about the creative expression,” he says, adding that he was surprised when artists in the US showed interest in wearing them on the red carpet, at the Grammys, for concert tours and other notable occasions.

Terrence Zhou plays with silhouettes. Photo: Handout
Zhou says that considering we all seem to have two identities, the online version and the real-life version of ourselves, the notion of “wearability” should evolve and be redefined – or, perhaps, undefined. “At the end of the day, embracing the freedom to express ourselves without boundaries might be more rewarding than confining ourselves to rigid definitions,” he says.
Jack Irving is a British designer. Photo: Jack Irving

Meanwhile, Irving continues to project his passion for technology-meets-art-meet-fashion. “[I hope to evoke] everything I take inspiration from – awe, ethereality and a feeling larger than the mundanities of life!” shares the British designer.

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Fashion
  • Loewe, Schiaparelli and Comme des Garçons are renowned for challenging fashion norms on the runway – and so are these up-and-coming designers Kay Kwok, Jack Irving and Terrence Zhou
  • Irving creates futuristic pieces for Lady Gaga, the Spice Girls, Cheryl, Paris Hilton and Doja Cat; Kwok was the first Hong Kong designer to dress Beyoncé; and Zhou has worked with Kris Jenner