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5 highlights from Paris Haute Couture Week 2023: from Chanel’s Parisian woman and Dior’s modern-day goddess to Valentino’s contemporary take, Schiaparelli’s skirt suits and a star-studded Balenciaga

Models present creations by designer Pierpaolo Piccioli as part of his haute couture autumn/winter 2023-2024 collection show for fashion house Valentino at the Chateau de Chantilly near Paris, France, on July 5. Photo: Reuters

Paris Haute Couture Week just wrapped and, after sitting in to watch all the top houses unveil their autumn/winter 2023-2024 collections, we were amazed by the sheer amount of stunning looks on offer.

But enough glitz, glamour and hoo-hah, let’s get to the fashion – here are our editor’s top five highlights from a week of beautiful couture collections, delivered in the City of Love ...

1. Schiaparelli

A model presents creations from Schiaparelli haute couture autumn/winter 2023-2024. Photo: Schiaparelli
After a taxidermy-inspired collection that made headlines last season and drew ire from animal-rights activists, Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli delivered yet another winner.

The label has been on a roll, both on the red carpet and among women who actually buy outfits and don’t just borrow them. You just had to look at the front row of clients clad in head-to-toe Schiaparelli at the autumn/winter 2023-2024 show.

The signature gold accents of Schiaparelli were seen at its autumn/winter 2023-2024 haute couture show. Photo: Schiaparelli
By now the codes of the house have been firmly established: show-stopping monochrome looks with gold accents and elements recalling the surrealist spirit of the house’s legendary founder, Elsa Schiaparelli.

This season, Roseberry created an “impossible wardrobe” of extravagant separates that also included two of the best skirt suits seen in Paris during the couture shows: one embroidered with golden painted wooden beads and another with broken pieces of mirror.

Paris Haute Couture Week day 1 round up: from riots to Daniel Roseberry

2. Chanel

Models present creations by Chanel during the women’s haute couture autumn/winter 2023-2024 fashion week in Paris, France, on Tuesday July 4. Photo: AFP

Is there any wonder that women around the world dreaming of Parisian haute couture flock to the house that is perhaps most associated with this rarefied form of dressmaking, Chanel?

Virginie Viard, creative director of the quintessentially Parisian house, held the brand’s autumn/winter 2023-2024 show on the banks of the Seine with a postcard view of the Eiffel Tower. A beautiful cliché that – just like Chanel tropes such as tweed, flower appliqués and little black dresses – never gets old.
French fashion house Chanel wows audience with dogs, fruit baskets and the Eiffel Tower as a backdrop. Photo: Xinhua

This lovely celebration of the ever-alluring Parisian woman saw models – one of them nonchalantly walking a dog – clad in long overcoats, diaphanous blouses, tweed skirts and chiffon dresses. Two-tone Mary Jane shoes and romantic fruit baskets brought couture into the real world in an effortless way.

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3. Balenciaga

Cardi B and Offset at Balenciaga haute couture autumn/winter 2023-2024 show in Paris, France, on Wednesday, July 5. Photo: Balenciaga
Demna of Balenciaga invited guests ranging from rapper Cardi B with husband Offset to Academy Award winner Michelle Yeoh to the brand’s storied headquarters on Avenue George V to unveil the label’s 52nd – his third – haute couture collection.
Oscar winner Michelle Yeoh stuns in a yellow dress at Balenciaga’s haute couture show in Paris, France, on July 5. Photo: Balenciaga

That wide range also reflects the designer’s output, which runs the gamut from headline-grabbing, often viral streetwear pieces to refined creations that hark back to the austere and exacting approach to design of house founder Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Danielle Slavik models a Balenciaga black dress that was inspired by one worn by Grace Kelly in the 1960s. Photo: Balenciaga

Scored to the unmistakable voice of opera singer Maria Callas, the show opened with a black dress modelled by one of Cristóbal’s favourite models, Danielle Slavik, and inspired by one worn by Grace Kelly in the 60s.

Trompe l’oeil fur coats, structured outerwear and the chicest evening wear we’ve seen this season made this “tribute to perfection” another successful chapter in Demna’s commitment and devotion to the craft of dressmaking.

Paris Haute Couture Week day 2 round up: Chanel, Giorgio Armani and more

4. Dior

A model wears a creation of the Christian Dior haute couture autumn/winter 2023-2024 collection presented in Paris, France, on Monday, July 3. Photo: AP
Dior’s mostly white looks had a lightness and purity to them that highlighted the simple beauty of the monastic and ethereal silhouettes that have become synonymous with women’s artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s work.

While the line-up may have felt a bit monotonous at times, it was a true celebration of timeless beauty and female grace. Inspired by the work of artist Marta Roberti, who worked on the set of the show, Chiuri’s creations also evoked garments of ancient Rome: the tunic, the peplum, the stole and the cape.

Dior’s artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s creations conjured up images of goddesses. Photo: Xinhua

Chiuri has been celebrating femininity – and feminism – at Dior since her very first day at the house and this time she scored again with this poetic ode to modern-day goddesses.

5. Valentino

A model wears a creation from the Valentino haute couture autumn/winter 2023-2024 collection, presented in Chantilly, north of Paris, France, on July 5. Photo: AP

A fellow editor attending the Valentino’s autumn/winter 2023-2024 haute couture show couldn’t help but wonder at the sheer number of looks that made up the collection and how each and every one of them was a stunning mini tableau.

The Rome-based brand held its show at the Chateau de Chantilly, a 90-minute drive from Paris. While the fairy-tale setting is likely to conjure up memories of lavish gowns and royal attire, this collection was the definition of 21st century couture.

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Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s haute couture autumn/winter 2023-2024 collection for Valentino is the definition of 21st century couture. Photo: Reuters

Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli is a true modern-day couturier. Shown on a very diverse range of models and featuring the best colour pairings we’ve seen this season, the collection opened with model Kaia Gerber wearing a white blouse with a pair of denim trousers and flat shoes.

Model Kaia Gerber opened Valentino’s show wearing a white blouse and a pair of denim trousers. Photo: Xinhua

This seemingly pedestrian and powerful gesture epitomises Piccioli’s precious yet relevant approach to this centuries-old art form. Thanks to creators like him, haute couture stays relevant by celebrating unparalleled beauty in all its forms and shapes.

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  • For those who are wondering if haute couture is still relevant today, you can now put your doubts to rest – Paris Haute Couture Week proved that couturiers are adapting their craft to the 21st century
  • Chanel celebrated the ‘Parisian woman’ and Dior paid homage to ancient Rome; Balenciaga’s show was attended by Michelle Yeoh and Cardi B, and accompanied by the operatic voice of Maria Callas