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Those who find a ball gown too voluminous but wish to show off a nipped waistline may want to opt for an elongating A-line, a less dramatic alternative. If you have curves to spare though, the mermaid will be your go-to option, particularly for those who are tall, as it emphasises the body’s shape. One Day Bridal’s Sadie gown is a good example, plus its minimal embellishments make sure that all eyes stay on an hourglass figure. “But this shape can make a petite woman look shorter, as the skirt does not have a lot of room to flare out below the knee. However, with a trumpet shape, the skirt flares out just below the thigh to a graceful train that sweeps the floor.”

A column shape is best suited for those with a slimmer or more boyish frame, particularly if the fabric is flowy without the typical boning and corsetry associated with bridal gowns – think Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy in that Narciso Rodriguez sheath. A modern take on this is Westwood’s Minerva gown, a silk-satin number with a draped neckline that sweeps across the shoulder, “creating the illusion of a fuller bosom”, Au notes.

But while there are plenty of gowns to choose from on the market, many brides might still relish the opportunity to work with a custom gown designer. Noel Chu, an industry veteran, says women come to her more to execute unusual requirements. “They might have an unusual body type or want to combine elements of several dresses, or they want something not easy to find, like a folk costume or a jumpsuit,” she says. What makes the process more enjoyable for the bride is that she will dictate elements she desires. For example, a low back can emphasis curves, or a sheer bodice can be made a little more conservative for church by adding a detachable fabric panel.

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Chu will execute these requests in a way that naturally flatters the bride’s body type. “This is a dream factory. So we want to give a client what she wants, but I will also have them try on what I think will make them look good.”

Typically Chu will create a mock-up gown at a low cost that is perfectly fitted, because most women don’t fit into typical body types. “A mock-up gives them the best idea of the final look, because sometimes people find custom designs very abstract,” she says. In one case, Chu says the bride’s body art dictated the design – she wished for a matching husband-and-wife back tattoo to be the focal point. “As important as body type is, the gown and silhouette needs to match the situation, and the photo opportunity, too,” Chu explains.

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“In a church, you want to be more conservative, but you also want to make sure the gown has impact from behind, which is the way most guests will see it,” she adds. “For family and group photos, I would suggest a silhouette that makes the bride look slimmer, but also one that doesn’t block guests from standing right beside the bride. For the march in, you want it grand, and if there’s a high ceiling, you can carry off a dramatic silhouette.”

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