Meet the ‘king’ of white truffles

“Hong Kong is very much a hotspot for white truffles,” says Umberto Bombana, chef and co-owner of 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, who had his first taste of the prized ingredient at the age of 13. “My grandmother was working as a chef and preparing a meal for an aristocratic family, and I was able to try some white truffles in a simple pasta. Its smell and flavour has captured my imagination ever since.”

Why are Alba white truffles so expensive?

First of all, they are seasonal, grown in the wild and can only be harvested once a year. Second, they are extremely finicky and sensitive to changes in temperature and climate, meaning that any slight changes affect their scarcity and supply. Truffle hunting is also a laborious process that involves hunters and dogs to unearth the hidden gems by hand, and once harvested, they must be quickly transported around the world and consumed within 10 days.

“A great truffle has a depth and complexity that goes beyond the senses,” says Alberto Perez, Asia director of Sabatino Tartufi Hong Kong, one of the world’s top truffle suppliers with 110 years of history. “Its aroma can take over an entire room in seconds, and like a great kiss, it can’t be described but experienced.”

Matteo Morello, founder of Castellana, an Italian restaurant in Central, Hong Kong, agrees: “The aroma of the truffle can tell you whether it is of good quality. In Piedmont, we consider the very best white truffles to be ones that are slightly pink on the inside. Although these truffles may not grow very large in size, they have an extremely intense aroma that is highly sought after.”

The shape and size-to-weight ratio of the white truffle also matters, according to Maurizio Pace, head chef at LPM Restaurant & Bar, inside H Queen’s, Central. “It gives an indication of the soil that the truffle has matured in and how fresh it is,” he says. “I would also look at its colour, moisture level and aroma. Just like a fine wine, the truffle can have notes of hazelnut, walnut and so on.”

Where do most truffles in Hong Kong come from?

When asked where their white truffles were sourced from, most restaurants prefer not to name their actual supplier but claim that they are from Alba. That said, not all Italian white truffles come from the Alba region in Piedmont.

“Being a small area in Italy, [Alba] cannot possibly supply truffles to the entire world,” explains Perez, adding that Tuscany, Umbria and Emilia-Romagna are also important areas for white truffle production.

“While it is true that Alba truffles possess a certain uniqueness, Italy is home to a plethora of remarkable white truffles. Additionally, the highest quality Italian white truffles are not exported but directly supplied to restaurants that are willing to pay a premium of 50 to 70 per cent above the market price. As long as they originate from Italy, they can be considered of good quality.”

How to cook with truffles

When it comes to enjoying the white truffles themselves, experts agree that simplicity is key. Bombana suggests simple dishes such as scrambled eggs or pasta with some butter and white truffle shavings on top just before serving. “You do not cook truffles as the heat will kill the aroma,” he explains.

For Morello, his favourite way to enjoy white truffle is with zabaione – a light, Italian custard dessert. “This gives me fond memories of growing up in Piedmont and the way my grandmother would reward us for being well-behaved at lunchtime,” he says.

“Personally, I find the best way to enjoy white truffles is with home-made fettuccine, a sprinkle of sea salt, and a generous amount of high-quality butter,” says Perez. “It is important not to overpower the basic flavours, but rather allow the truffle’s unique taste and aroma to transport you to the enchanting Italian forest during winter.”

The truffle dishes you should try this year in Hong Kong

As white truffle season kicks off in Hong Kong, the city’s top chefs have already come up with plenty of dishes to delight diners.

LPM will be introducing four different dishes featuring white truffle, including burrata à la truffle blanche, a soft and creamy burrata dressed with white truffle vinaigrette and finished with freshly shaved white truffle, plus a home-made rigatoni tossed in a light cream sauce topped with shaved white truffle and Parmesan cheese.

Another pasta option is LPM’s gnocchi maison à la truffle blanche, which Pace describes as “little soft pillows of joy that are the perfect match for white truffle”. Purists can also enjoy LPM’s their simple yet delicious œufs à la truffle blanche – a plate of perfectly scrambled eggs with cream and white truffle shavings on top.

At Castellana’s executive chef Romeo Morelli has planned a four-course degustation menu that includes a porcini mushroom tart with egg yolk and white truffle, and seared quail with fresh asparagus and white truffle. Alternatively, white truffles can be added to any of their à la carte menu items.

This year at 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, the King of White Truffles will be introducing a new veal carpaccio dish topped with white truffle shavings.

For something a little different, head to Castellana’s sister restaurant Perla on the Sky Dining level of the International Commerce Centre (ICC), where head chef Fabiano Palombini pairs white truffles with seafood and fish.

“One of my favourite ways to enjoy white truffle is with fish soup or with a steamed fish dish,” he says. “The steam enhances the flavour of the white truffle that has been shaved on top. Fish is also full of collagen and fatty oils, which helps to balance the dry characteristics of white truffle.”

No matter how you enjoy your white truffles, the time to enjoy them is short and fleeting, so be sure to get them while you still can. So, the big question: at this year’s Alba White Truffle World Auction, will Hongkongers again out-bid competing foodies from across the world, and bring the largest and most exquisite Alba white truffles home to the city? That’s tuber continued …