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Priyanka Chopra and Shah Rukh Khan’s stomping ground: how Mumbai’s Dharavi slum and Bollywood Film City sit side by side

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The two sides of Mumbai: the Dharavi shantytown and the glamorous Taj Mahal Palace. Photo: AFP

Next to his limousine, a wealthy Indian bridegroom dances with friends to the sounds of a traditional band on a closed road. From the nearby Taj Mahal Palace, luxury hotel guests can see the wedding, but also the boats rocking in the bay and the city’s landmark, The Gateway of India, a mighty stone triumphal arch.

Taj Mahal Palace hotel in Mumbai. Photo: AFP

Countless locals and tourists are enjoying the colourful spectacle. Families go for a stroll, sit around, have a picnic. Many women are wearing elegant saris, others traditional Muslim clothes. The metropolis of 20 million is a cultural and religious melting pot, with a large Hindu majority.

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Dharavi, considered Asia's biggest shantytown, was portrayed in the award-winning film Slumdog Millionaire. Photo: Reuters
It’s not a cliché to say Mumbai is a city of contrasts. From the slums, past smelly hanging toilets, to luxury apartment towers and the film studios that form the centre of the ever-headline-provoking Bollywood cinema industry – a tour through the city is needed.

Among the most popular destinations for organised trips are a shantytown with two million people in the middle of Mumbai and a huge film production site with countless studios: Dharavi and Bollywood.

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“The largest slum in India” – that’s how tourist agencies advertise a visit to Dharavi. Despite the misery, the neighbourhood has enormous economic power. Residents, not-for-profit organisers and canny tour operators work hand in hand.

The bustling streets of Dharavi. Photo: Reuters

“You can take pictures. But we always ask beforehand”, says guide Mayur, who accompanies his guest for four hours on foot.

The entrances to the mini flats are open. There is space for a gas stove, mats, bowls, metal pots and a small television. Bowls, jugs and containers are left to dry in the sun. Plastic and other things from rubbish heaps are recycled. Several thousand small workshops are constantly producing, recycling and repairing things.

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A tour of the Film City

A motorist rides past a wall mural with images of Bollywood actors in Mumbai on June 29, 2020. Photo: AFP via Getty Images

From the slum, things head north to Bollywood. The next few kilometres lead past more slums, skyscrapers with offices and luxury flats, parks, train tracks, expressways and shrubs.

In front of the plain, rectangular archway, security guards check moped, tuk tuk and other drivers. “Film City Mumbai” is written above the arch. Next to it, a number of Indians and a German are waiting between large photos of famous local film stars for their tour.

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Welcome to Bollywood, the centre of India’s thriving film industry. The guide in a bright red shirt is in his element, leading the visitors to sets and studios and giving out facts. Yes, Bollywood is huge. “Many stars have kissed on the romantic bridge over there,” the guide explains. “The best car crash scenes were shot on this mountain slope”, and, “No, we can’t go into the studios.”

Lamb masala and a Bombay Blazer

Finally, a tour of the gastronomy of the Colaba Causeway. Today Indian women also head to Gokul, a restaurant a stone’s throw from the Gateway of India.

As recently as 20 years ago, restaurants and bars with alcohol were only for men. Dinner for two includes chicken curry, lamb masala, water, tonic, ice and a small bottle of gin.

Pedestrians walk past Leopold Cafe in Mumbai in 2008. Photo: SCMP

Things get more expensive in the famous Leopold Cafe around the corner, founded in 1871. Umakant Kanddapally has been working in the Harbor Bar of the Taj Mahal Palace hotel for over 25 years. He’s mixing a Bombay Blazer flaming cocktail. “Mumbai keeps getting back on its feet”, he says proudly as he pours. He is certainly right about that.

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Additional information

Vaccinations against hepatitis A and typhoid, as well as rabies, hepatitis B and Japanese encephalitis are recommended for travellers planning on staying longer. Depending on your trip, chemoprophylaxis with malaria tablets may be useful. On the road, travellers should consistently protect themselves from mosquito bites. Commercial international travel is currently prohibited because of the pandemic. Tourist entry remains largely prohibited until further notice and several countries were still warning against travel to India at the start of 2021. India has been particularly hard hit by the pandemic, with the country recording thousands of new infected people every day.

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From the real-life shantytown featured in Slumdog Millionaire, to the glamorous Bollywood studios frequented by Alia Bhatt and the legendary Amitabh Bachchan – Mumbai is a cultural powerhouse and a city of contrasts