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Meet Thom Browne, the designer who beat Adidas in court: the stripes-loving American styled NBA star LeBron James and Gigi Hadid and is the current chairman of CFDA, after Tom Ford

Designer Thom Browne poses for a portrait before the Thom Browne Womenswear spring/summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at Palais Garnier in October 2022, in Paris, France. Photo: Getty Images

American designer Thom Browne grew wider recognition among fashionistas this month after the high-end designer took on Adidas in court and won.

So who is he and how did it all happen?

Adidas sued the fashion house in 2021

Fashion designer Thom Browne leaves Manhattan federal court in January 2023, in New York, US, after a jury decided he did not infringe the trademark of sportswear giant Adidas. Photo: AP
Adidas alleged that customers could confuse Thom Browne’s four-stripe brand designs with Adidas’ three stripes. The company also alleged that Thom Browne’s designs infringe on the company’s trademark on parallel stripes, which Adidas has used for over 70 years.

Browne launched his clothing line in early 2000 and has since pumped out parallel stripe designs on everything from suits paired with pleated skirts and shorts to cashmere jumpers and socks over the years.

Signage on an Adidas store in New York, New York, US, in October 2022. Photo: EPA-EFE

Adidas sought roughly US$7.8 million in damages – equivalent to the amount Adidas believed it would have earned through a licensing agreement with Thom Browne and profits Thom Browne made off the parallel stripe designs.

In the end, Thom Browne’s lawyers successfully argued that consumers don’t confuse the two brands because Adidas is a sportswear company and Thom Browne is a luxury fashion house.

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Fashion designer Thom Browne is seen wearing socks with four stripes outside Manhattan federal court, in January 2023, in New York. Photo: AP
A single pair of striped socks from Thom Browne can retail for US$120, while similar crew socks from Adidas cost around US$16 for a three-pack. Browne pointedly entered Manhattan’s Southern District Court on the opening day of the trial in a black shorts suit and high socks, one of which featured white stripes.

“Fighting this was important,” Browne said in an interview with The New York Times after the verdict was read. He told the publication the decision was a “protection for creativity” against big companies. “When you create something, someone can’t just come and take it away from you.”

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Yeezy shoes made by Adidas are displayed at Kickclusive, a sneaker resale store, in Paramus, New Jersey, in October 2022. Photo: AP

Thom Browne made US$285 million in 2021 revenue compared to US$23 billion for Adidas, according to The New York Times report.

The battle is likely not over between the two companies. Adidas said in a previous statement to Insider that it may appeal the decision.

“We are disappointed with the verdict and will continue to vigilantly enforce our intellectual property, including filing any appropriate appeals,” an Adidas spokesman said.

Clothes by fashion designer Thom Browne is taken into Manhattan federal court, in January 2023, in New York. Photo: AP

A spokesperson for Thom Browne, Inc. told Insider it was pleased with the jury’s decision that the company did not infringe on any of Adidas’ trademarks.

“We look forward to continuing to design and provide the creative products that have become the hallmark of the Thom Browne label,” the spokesperson added.

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Adidas sought roughly US$7.8 million in damages from Thom Browne but lost in court earlier this month.

Who is Thom Browne?

Fashion designer Thom Browne arrives for the 2022 Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. (CFDA) Fashion Awards in New York City, in November 2022. Photo: AFP

Thom Browne’s started his eponymous brand in 2001 with seed money he borrowed from his siblings, GQ reported.

The designer has styled celebrities like NBA star LeBron James, supermodel Gigi Hadid and former first lady Michelle Obama.
Portrait of fashion designer Thom Browne. Photo: Handout

Born in Allentown, Pennsylvania, Browne opened his first store in New York City in 2003 with five made-to-measure grey suits. His company has since expanded to over 50 stores and also sells footwear, accessories like eyewear and neckties, and a fragrance, according to its site.

“The grey suit remains elemental to all he does, signifying a singular point-of-view and the commitment to exceptional quality in fabrics and tailoring,” Thom Browne’s website reads.

The Thom Browne autumn 2010 collection is modelled during Fashion Week in New York. Photo: AP

In 2007, after Adidas discovered how Thom Browne was using stripes, the label agreed to add a fourth stripe to its designs to avoid a legal battle. Browne recently told NPR his striped designs were influenced by his love of sports and the clothing athletes wore.

“I have always been inspired by sports. I grew up swimming, playing tennis, and come from a family of seven kids who - we all did sports,” he said on NPR. “So the stripes really were inspired by varsity tennis jumpers and varsity pieces of clothing.”

According to The New York Times, Adidas came calling again in 2018 about the striped designs. By then, Thom Browne was dressing sports teams like the NBA’s Cleveland Cavaliers and European football club FC Barcelona for pregame appearances. Thom Browne had also expanded its activewear category with more sweatpants and hoodies.

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Like many luxury brands, Thom Browne has expanded into more casual wear

Clothes are pictured in the new Adidas Originals store before the opening in Berlin, Germany, in March 2014. Photo: Reuters

Both casual wear and sports are Adidas business’ bread and butter. The company has not been shy about taking legal action against brands it believes are infringing on its three stripes trademark. In recent years, Adidas has challenged Puma, Payless and Skechers over shoe designs.

Thom Browne attends the 2017 CFDA Fashion Awards at Hammerstein Ballroom in June 2017, in New York City. Photo: AFP
Browne currently sits as chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, succeeding Tom Ford. He took over the role this month on January 1. The trade association has previously awarded Browne its Menswear Designer of the Year award three times in 2006, 2013 and 2016.
A model presents creations from the autumn/winter 2019-2020 ready-to-wear collection by US fashion designer Thom Browne during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, in January 2019. Photo: EPA-EFE

“I am very excited about taking on the chairmanship of the CFDA,” Browne said in an October statement after the announcement. “I also feel that it is important to give back to an industry that has supported me so well over the last 20 years. I am so proud to be an American designer … there is so much happening in American design today that the world needs to really see and recognise and truly appreciate.”

This article originally appeared on Insider.
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Fashion
  • Adidas sued the luxury fashion label in 2021, and alleged that customers could confuse Thom Browne’s 4-stripe brand designs with its 3 stripes – but lost its case earlier in January
  • The Pennsylvanian native started his eponymous brand in 2001, with seed money he borrowed from his siblings and has also styled former first lady Michelle Obama