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Is vitamin C skincare’s rock star? The science behind the trendy ingredient: from how it’s formulated and packaged to alternative forms like tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate for sensitive skin

Products containing vitamin C claim they can not only brighten and tighten your skin, but also reduce the appearance of ageing. Photo: Shutterstock

So, you’ve probably noticed all the buzz around vitamin C in skincare lately, right?

From celeb fave wellness IV drips to ingestible capsules, it seems every dermatologist is raving about the magical powers of vitamin C. They claim it can brighten your skin, make it firmer, shield it from the sun and pollution, fade those pesky dark spots – and even turn back the clock on ageing.

But does vitamin C actually live up to the hype? Let’s dig into the science of it all.

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The exciting theory behind vitamin C

Vitamin C serum with sea grape caviar by Cocokind can reduce the appearance of acne scaring. Photo: Cocokind

In theory, vitamin C sounds like a superhero for your skin. It’s an antioxidant, which means it can tackle those troublemakers called free radicals that speed up the ageing process.

Dr. Whitney Bowe, a New York dermatologist, says it can also kick-start collagen production, the stuff that keeps your skin looking firm and bouncy. This means it could help smooth out those fine lines and wrinkles over time. Plus, it’s said to be a champ at brightening dark spots by putting the brakes on an enzyme called tyrosinase, which causes skin discolouration.

Sounds pretty fantastic, right? But hold on, there’s a twist.

Why some vitamin C products miss the mark

It’s essential to keep vitamin C products away from direct sunlight and heat. Photo: Shutterstock
The catch with vitamin C is that not all products on the market are created equal. The key to its effectiveness lies in how it’s formulated and packaged. Vitamin C can be a bit of a diva – it’s not very stable and can break down when it’s exposed to heat, high pH levels, or sunlight – and these things can happen during the shipping and storage of your skincare products.

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But wait, there’s more! Even if the vitamin C manages to stay stable, it might not get past your skin’s outer layer. Your skin has this neat trick of repelling water-loving molecules like L-ascorbic acid, a common form of vitamin C found in many products, which means it might not penetrate deeply enough to work its magic.

Vitamin C comes in multiple forms, including L-ascorbic acid and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Photo: Shutterstock

There are some alternative forms of vitamin C, like tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid, which can sneak past that outer layer more effectively, but they’re relatively new on the scene and don’t have a tonne of research backing up their claims.

Choosing your vitamin C products

Try to find products that have both vitamins C and E and ferulic acid as they can help with skin penetration. Photo: Paula’s Choice

If you’re thinking about adding a vitamin C product to your routine, there are a few things to keep in mind. Look for products that not only have vitamin C but also throw in some vitamin E and ferulic acid. These ingredients can team up to boost stability and penetration.

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C E Ferulic by SkinCeuticals has gone through reliable clinical tests. Photo: SkinCeuticals

Packaging matters, too. Go for products in opaque packaging with pump applicators – they help protect your vitamin C from going wonky. Trustworthy skincare brands such as SkinCeuticals often conduct clinical testing to make sure their products actually do what they say they do.

Rosacea is a common skin condition that causes flushing or long-term redness on your face. Photo: Clinic33

And if you’ve got sensitive skin or rosacea, you might want to opt for the gentler vitamin C options, like tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

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Takeaway

The key to vitamin C’s effectiveness lies in how it’s formulated and packaged. Photo: Drunk Elephant

In a nutshell, vitamin C is indeed a skincare rock star, but not all products are created equal. Understanding the science behind it and making the right choices can help you get the most out of the ingredient.

Skincare
  • Hailed as skincare’s rock star, vitamin C is an antioxidant that protects the skin from damaging free radicals, reducing dark spots and redness, and preventing premature ageing, so what’s the catch?
  • Not all products on the market are created equal and for it to be effective, it’s important to look for other ingredients that boost stability and penetration, like vitamin E and ferulic acid