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New York, London, Milan and Paris are the places to be for all the latest fashion has to offer

Designs by New York-based designer Joseph Altuzarra.

There are numerous cities around the world that label themselves as "style capitals" but, traditionally, the fashion industry has always revolved around four major hubs - New York, London, Milan and Paris. Twice a year, industry insiders - including buyers, press and retailers - flock to these hot spots to seek out the latest trends, stores and talents that will define how we live and breathe fashion in the coming season.

Over time, each of these cities has carved its own distinct niche in the fashion ecosystem, especially when it comes to creating a certain style or look. New York has always been considered the home of sportswear and all things casual, while London is known for its edgy and innovative creations that often take inspiration from various forms of street culture.

Over in Europe, Milan and Paris are not only manufacturing bases, but also beacons of luxury and high style. The Italians are known for their appreciation of beauty and craftsmanship with a body-conscious and provocative look. And Paris, considered the leader of them all, is where creativity and experimentation rule.

A flowing sexy T.Stripes dress from Sonia Rykiel's Julie de Libran.

As fashion has evolved into a global business, however, these distinct personalities are changing fast. These capitals are no longer dominated by homegrown talents - instead, there has been an influx of designers from around the world, many of whom are drawing inspiration from the style legacy of their adopted homes and then turning them on their heads.

"One thing I love about London is that people have this sense of freedom when it comes to fashion - just look at the youth and street culture here. They take risks, but there is such a strong element of personal style to express who they are. It's opened my eyes in terms of possibilities of creativity," says London-based Canadian designer Thomas Tait, who also recently won LVMH's inaugural Fashion Prize.

A Central Saint Martins graduate, Tait made his debut at London Fashion Week in 2011 and immediately stood out for his razor-sharp silhouettes and meticulously crafted and structured pieces. For spring/summer 2015, he sent out polished yet edgy looks, including slinky tops and tunics paired with neon legging boots, angular layered skirts and sheer striped tops. What really stood out, however, were the details that went into each piece, from the intricate folds on a leather jacket to the knife-pleated yellow dress.

A lot of details go into Thomas Tait's designs. Photo: Umberto Fratini / indigitalimages.com
London-based Canadian designer Thomas Tait.

Tait's collections are bringing a more luxe sensibility to a city known for its young but often inexperienced designers. "Many British designers are now developing an aesthetic that is a lot cleaner and polished. I don't want to call it futurism, but there is a conscious effort here to make things feel new. I like the challenge of showing people new ideas, and London is the place for that," he says.

Like Tait, designer Joseph Altuzarra, who is of Chinese-American and French descent, isn't based in his hometown. Born in Paris, he worked in Paris and New York before settling in the latter to launch his label in 2008.

"To me, American style has always been marked by a certain pragmatism and ease," Altuzarra says. "I think that it's become more relevant than ever today, as the fashion customer has embraced a more everyday and utilitarian approach to their wardrobes - they want pieces that fit into their busy lives, that work from day to night. I'm really interested in the utilitarian roots of American fashion, especially as they relate to uniforms, workwear and utility garments. That is always something that I continue to reference from season to season."

This design by Joseph Altuzarra reveals a Parisian touch in the sexy yet versatile silhouette.
Joseph Altuzarra still embraces his French roots.

Interestingly, one can also detect a Parisian touch in Altuzarra's sexy yet versatile silhouettes. His collection features wardrobe essentials such as jackets and fitted skirts covered in a workwear favourite, gingham, but there is a Parisian nonchalance in items such as the chic belted suede dress and striped shirtdresses. "A big part of [the brand's] DNA comes from a very French/Parisian aesthetic vocabulary, but American style is certainly a core aspect into what makes up the brand, and it's that dichotomy that makes it special. My goal is to try to create something new and interesting," he says.

As creative director for legendary French brand Sonia Rykiel, Julie de Libran is familiar with the concept of Parisian style and explores it frequently. In fact, Rykiel was instrumental in defining how Parisian women dressed throughout her career, but de Libran is hoping to give it a more contemporary spin for the woman of today.

"The typical Parisian style is all about effortless elegance and character, but today a woman wants to be seductive. Her personal style is often discreet, but with a surprising element - be it something playful, feminine or sexy," she says.

Left: Julie de Libran reinterprets a French design staple, stripes. Right: Julie de Libran has worked stripes into a variety of styles.
Julie de Libran, creative director for legendary French brand Sonia Rykiel

Her debut collection for the house, launching this season, fits this new Parisian spirit to a T. Stripes, a staple in all French wardrobes, have been worked into woven tweed jackets and voluminous skirts, realised as ruffles and fringing, or given a glam look in sequins and lace. There are also plenty of luxe wardrobe staples including knitted capes, military parkas, leather jogging pants and denim, proving that Parisian style today is all about wearability too.

"It's about redefining the style through the silhouette, in the materials, fabrics, colours, the accessories," de Libran says.

For Milan-based designer Fausto Puglisi, Italian style is in his blood. It was designers such as Walter Albini, Emilio Pucci and Gianni Versace that inspired the Sicilian to pursue a career in fashion. And although he found fame dressing starlets in Hollywood, it was Italy where he chose to launch his eponymous label in 2006.

"Italian style is a delicate and soulful balance of handmade craftsmanship and the eternal passion for beauty that this country has cultivated for hundreds of years now. It's still about beautiful things that are beautifully crafted with a look that's classic, but now it has a more contemporary, sexy twist which I like," he says.

From left: Fausto Puglisi’s spring/summer collection features gladiator dresses; Fausto Puglisi ’s work is testament to a new Italian style, with collections that are bold and brazen; Fausto Puglisi is a Milanbased designer who carries an Italian flair in his designs. Photo: Ritratto Colore

His work is testament to a new Italian style, with collections that are bold and brazen - including daring styles like black leather harness bras and supershort cheerleader skirts. Puglisi's spring line is no exception, with gladiator skirts, perforated dresses, gold-foil leather jackets and studded sandals. The "made in Italy" craftsmanship that he loves is evident in the countless embellishments throughout the collection. Even the inspiration - ancient Rome - is a homage to the country.

"Every fashion capital has its own unique style. The different characteristics get them their unique flavour and peculiar style," Puglisi says. "This is vital for the system, as it helps to diversify the offerings and make things interesting."

 



Definitely more commercial, with an emphasis on luxe yet casual pieces infused with elements of sportswear
Bill Blass, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors
Alexander Wang has been instrumental in redefining New York style with his edgy off-duty look, but new names include Rosie Assoulin with her old world silhouettes and Tome


A strong emphasis on personal style, characterised by bold, experimental looks that take inspiration from streetwear and the youth culture
John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen
J.W. Anderson whose unisex collections are the ultimate expression of personal style, while Marques Almeida is all about attitude with their streetwear-inspired separates


There are two camps: classic, well-crafted pieces versus molto sexy designs
For the former, Max Mara and Giorgio Armani; the latter, Gucci, Gianni Versace, Dolce & Gabbana
Stella Jean's cool ethnic style, featuring plenty of colours and prints, while Philipp Plein is all about sexy silhouettes and embellishments


Anything goes as long as you are pushing boundaries and creating the unexpected
Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Balenciaga
Rick Owens with his glam grunge aesthetic, while Japanese label Sacai is known for its hybrid creations that feature deconstructed silhouettes and patchworks

 

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Go four it

Savvy designers are revitalising the fashion capitals of the world with their ground-breaking interpretations