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Today’s food creators are blithely blurring the lines between culinary and visual masterpieces

Suwa's 'Guerilla Restaurant' at Isetan, Tokyo, 2014. Photos: Ida Munehide with special thanks to Fake Tokyo, The Earth Production

During a sweltering summer’s day in the Japanese capital, an edible sculpture constructed of rougetinted chocolate kisses spiralled towards the ceiling of a gallery opposite the Tokyo Tower. Floating next to the chocolate centrepiece were two pairs of giant red lips mounted on Plexiglass and composed of thousands of spherical red bonbons. Guests were encouraged to approach the artwork and pluck the candies from the clear canvas with their mouths. Over the course of an hour, the pieces morphed and waned, but pastry chef Janice Wong, who had created the installation, looked on with approval.

“My work is meant to be interactive, and I see it as more of an experience than a product,” she says, noting that the changing appearance of the art is part of the fun, a reflection of the impermanent nature of her medium – pastry.

Wong, the owner and chef of 2am:dessertbar and lab in Singapore, is also one of the world’s leading food artists. The pâtissier first made waves with an edible landscape that included a ceiling dripping with marshmallow-and-seaweed stalactites and walls lined with lychee-infused jelly drops. Since then, she has been flying around the world to produce massive installations made of confections. Recently, Wong opened an eponymous sweets boutique that features a section where customers can produce their own candy art.

Japanese artist Ayako Suwa's presentation at the Intercontinental Osaka's grand opening reception

Food has served as inspiration and medium for many contemporary artists, evoking desire, anger or delight. Think of Claes Oldenburg’s gargantuan inverted ice cream cone on top of a shopping centre in Germany, or Canadian artist Terence Koh’s sculptures of Michael Jackson moulded from Hershey’s chocolate. The idea that edible art could offer a delicious, rather than purely intellectual, experience is relatively new, but today’s food creators are blithely blurring the lines between culinary and visual arts. As a chef, Wong strives to bring gustatory pleasure through her creations, and she sees food as a playful way to bridge cultural differences. “A lollipop is never just a lollipop,” she says. “What’s considered acceptable to eat varies from country to country.”

Japanese artist Ayako Suwa uses food to explore “the possibilities of taste” and emotions. Her inspiration comes from nature, and her art – which is displayed in galleries and luxury retail shops or woven into her travelling “Guerilla Restaurant” performances – is visceral and provocative. Suwa says the aim is to reignite a primal sense of curiosity. As a child, the budding artist presented her playmates with dishes composed of found objects such as plants, shells and insects, and this fascination with the intersection between taste and imagination persists in her work. “Food does not merely pass from the mouth to the stomach,” she says.

Combining her training as an artist with an intuitive feel for ingredients, Suwa creates edible sculptures in miniature that juxtapose unusual flavours and textures. A cut plum filled with balsamic vinegar and topped with red seaweed becomes a “lingering taste of regret with overtones of anger welling up,” while “shame and joy” is a combination of mushroom, fresh cream and mint.

An eclair creation by Janice Wong. Photo: Jean-François Bohler
Pastry chef Janice Wong created a realistic and vibrantly hued sugar coral display using canapes.

“My work is not about nutritional value, a gourmet experience or familiar tastes. The people who decide to eat my food are seeking a ‘new value of food’ that is closely tied to instinct and curiosity,” Suwa says.

“Imagine the feeling of a primitive man when he discovered a sea cucumber for the first time.”

While Suwa seeks to distil large concepts into bite-sized packages, Sam Bompas and Harry Parr celebrate whimsy with grand gestures. Referring to themselves as “food architects,” Bompas and Parr are neither professional chefs nor trained artists, but they work with food in order to engage all five of the senses. “We discovered that if we applied the same principles of architecture to food, we could come up with something extraordinary,” Bompas says.

Inspired by the fanciful jelly sculptures of the Victorian era, Bompas and Parr started out with an exhibition of gelatin desserts made from moulds designed by architectural luminaries. Their work has become increasingly more complex. Their list of outré installations includes a chocolate rock-climbing wall – complete with a four-ton chocolate waterfall – and a dazzling display of multisensory fireworks accompanied by fruit-flavoured clouds.

A specially constructed organ, dubbed ‘The Flavour Conductor’, a collaboration between food architects Sam Bompas and Harry Parr and production company Done and Dusted, is designed to produce notes and tunes that correspond to aromas and flavours.
Bompas and Parr also created a chocolate rock-climbing wall.

Last autumn, the pair collaborated with the acclaimed production company Done and Dusted – scientists, instrument makers and composers – to curate a fully immersive work of performance art called “Symphony in Blue,” in honour of whisky maker Johnny Walker’s Blue Label Scotch. The travelling production, which debuted in London, occupied an entire building and featured lavish stage sets.

Actors clad in prohibition-era costumes greeted the guests on arrival and led them through a series of surprising “sensory experiences” – among them, a swirling fog of atomised whisky that recalls the stormy weather off the coast of Scotland. The event culminated in an epic feast and the unveiling of a specially constructed organ, dubbed “The Flavour Conductor”, designed to produce notes and tunes that correspond to aromas and flavours.

“We’re experimenting with how to choreograph things around a meal to create stories,” Bompas says. “Art is about entertainment. It can provoke you to think about very different subjects, or it can be joyful. We are doing things that people will choose to do in their precious leisure time.”

Amber Locke, aka @rawveganblonde on Instagram, brings her fruits and vegetable masterpieces to life.

 

Samantha Lee (@leesamantha) typically uses onigiri and nori as a base for her food art.

INSTA-CUISINE

is the go-to place for tantalising pictures of food. Dishes dressed beautifully by chefs and home cooks alike often leave followers drooling. But some talented artists have gone above and beyond #FoodPorn - these creative minds have combined their discerning eye with everyday food, and the inspiring results have brought art back to the culinary world.

Samantha Lee

Fun pictures created using onigiri and nori, originally designed for her children

Ida Skivenes, who goes under the handle @idafrosk, is known for her fun and healthy food art.

 

Ida Skivenes

@idafrosk296,000

Cute depictions of animals and scenes and re-creations of famous artworks, all using toast as a base

 

Amber Locke

"Veg art" with bold and beautiful colours. Some works commissioned by celebrity chef Jamie Oliver

 

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: TASTE FOR ART
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