White wine with red meat? Sure, says sommelier whose pairings work on a molecular level
- Francois Chartier recommends unusual pairings – sauvignon blanc and steamed asparagus, for example – based on science
- Forget what you think you know and try these three unexpected pairings, you might just be surprised
When it comes to wine and food pairing most of us adhere to the basic principle of white wine with white meat and red wine with red meat. Pairing expert Francois Chartier challenges this precept. He wants to “change the process because otherwise you always get the same result”. Inspired by new innovative culinary techniques, Chartier has met with food scientists to develop his ideas.
“My work consists of first tracking aromatic molecules to gather foods of the same aromatic families to create new ideas for recipes,” he says. “Second, I decrypt the volatile components of wines and other liquids to unite them with meals of the same molecular profile.”
An example is shiraz and black pepper, which share the same aromatic compound, rotundone. When the two are served together, Chartier says, “The flavour is magnified.”
There is a common belief that asparagus does not pair with wine. Chartier says sauvignon blanc and asparagus both contain the pyrazine compound and suggests serving this wine with steamed asparagus.
White wine can be paired with red meat, Chartier says. For example, Pouilly-Fumé made from sauvignon blanc complements braised lamb shank with coriander, fennel and star anise as both wine and dish share the anise compound.
Chartier’s molecular approach adds a different dimension to food and wine pairing, but ultimately it is subjective, with no right or wrong answers. Here are a few more wine and food pairings to try.
Domaine Francois Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet 1ér Cru “Les Combettes” 2014, HK$750
Francois Carillon started his own domaine in 2010. The grapes from Les Combettes are from 28-year-old vines. Primary fermentation is in oak barrels of which 10 to 15 per cent are new. The wine continues to mature in the barrel for 12 months and is transferred to stainless-steel vats for six months before bottling.
Citrus, butter and some spicy notes. Full bodied with a taut structure, intense fruit balanced by crisp acidity, judicious spicy oak with a long finish. Try with scallops, lobster, foie gras, miso, coconut or yogurt.
Available from Etc wine shops.
Bodegas Palacios Remondo Quiñón de Valmira 2015, Rioja, HK$3,225
An iconic wine from Spain’s famed producer Álvaro Palacios. Vineyards are situated at an altitude of 616 metres, with an average vine age of 31 years. A blend of 95 per cent garnacha and 5 per cent tinto velasco.
Red fruit replete with strawberries, raspberries and morello cherries. Shows purity of fruit and is elegant with fine tannins and a long finish. Try with beef, beetroot, strawberries and five-spice.
Available from Links Concept.
Pierre Péters, Cuvée de Reserve Blanc de Blancs NV, Champagne, HK$468
Pierre Péters is a sixth-generation French champagne grower-producer. The family owns 19 hectares of chardonnay vineyards in the Côte des Blancs villages of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Cramant and Avize.
One hundred per cent grand cru chardonnay with a blend of 40 per cent reserve wines dating back 15 years.
Floral, apple, citrus, brioche and mineral notes. Intense with crisp acidity, finishing balanced and long. Try with Iberico ham, aged comté cheese, caviar or bacalhau.
Available from Watson’s Wine.
